You don’t have to be a gourmand to know that Guam food is pretty addictive. Search “Chamorro food” on Instagram and you’ll see just how much Chamorros miss home-cooked meals when they move off-island. If you’re craving mom’s eskabeche or dad’s BBQ short ribs, heat up the skillet or fire up the grill and start cooking with these tried and true Chamorro recipes!

Chicken Kelaguen

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Don’t call it “chicken salad,” kelaguen is so much more. This spicy chicken dish is marinated in lemon and served with soft flour titiyas. Variations on this dish are made with uhang (shrimp), guihan (fish) or bindau (deer).

Ingredients:

1 small rotisserie chicken
6 stalks green onions
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon powder plus 3 tablespoons water (or use the juice of 1 large lemon)
2 teaspoons salt (more or less, to taste)
Hot pepper, optional
Freshly grated coconut (unsweetened), optional

Directions:

1.  Debone the chicken; shred or cut into small pieces (I used a food processor to roughly chop the chicken).
2.  Thinly slice the green onions then add it to the chicken.
3.  Add the lemon powder, water, salt and pepper to the bowl of chicken; mix to combine.  Taste; adjust seasoning if required.
4.  Stir in the optional grated coconut.
5.  Serve with my super easy sweet flour titiyas and enjoy!

Eskabeche

By Emilie Johnston, Guam Women’s Club Cookbook

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Fresh fish cooked in vinegar sauce, Chamorro eskabeche is an localized homage to the Spanish escabeche.

Ingredients:

Fish
Cooking oil
Beans (long beans, green beans, etc.)
Kang kong
Eggplant
Cabbage
Carrots
Onions
Green pepper
Turmeric, fresh if possible
Vinegar
Salt

Directions:

1. Clean and cook all vegetables, except green pepper and onions, in boiling water until tender. Reserve at least 2 cups of the cooking water.
2. Fry fish until barely cooked. Drain most of the oil from pan used to fry fish. Saute green pepper and onions in the same pan. Add grated or sliced fresh turmeric. (Powdered turmeric may be used if necessary.) Pour in about 2 cups of the vegetable water and about a cup of vinegar. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil.
3. Arrange cooked fish and vegetables in a large casserole dish or other serving dish. Spoon or pour solution over all. Refrigerated, this will keep for several days.

Finadenne

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Every culture has its own all-purpose special sauce, for Guam it is Finadenne – a simple trifecta of salty, sour, and spicy. Enjoy with everything from BBQ to plain white rice.

Ingredients:

Soy sauce, to taste (you can substitute the soy sauce with salt)
Vinegar, to taste (you can use any type of vinegar, or you can use lemon or lime juice)

Optional ingredients:

Green onions, as much as you like
White onions, diced, as much as you like
Hot chili peppers, as much as you can stand
Cherry tomatoes, diced or sliced

Annie’s special recipe

1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup vinegar
1 jalapeño pepper
2 Serrano chili peppers
4 stalks green onions
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes

1. In a small bowl, mix together the soy sauce and vinegar (or lemon juice if you prefer).
2. Slice the peppers then add them to the bowl with the onions, and tomatoes. Stir to combine.
3. Serve in a side dish or sprinkle over rice.

BBQ Short Ribs

By Rueben Olivas

Guam BBQ is typically made with Korean kalbi style short ribs, over a charcoal grill. Each family keeps its own BBQ recipe a tightly guarded secret. Thankfully, Rueben Olivas has let us in on the basics.

Ingredients:

1 cup of Kikkoman Soy Sauce
1 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar
1/2 to 1 onion sliced very thin
6 cloves of garlic minced
Black pepper to taste
Beef short ribs depending on the number of persons 1/2 lb per person generally.

Directions:

1. Mix the ingredients either by hand or in a blender.

2. Pour the marinade over your ribs in a container and coat ribs well.

3. Place the covered container in the refrigerator or cooler for at least 2 hours or over night.

4. BBQ or grill as some say, mopping the marinade on the ribs to keep them moist.

5. Because these ribs are thin, they will not take long to cook. These are juicy and delicious right off the grill.

Buñelos Aga

Recipe by Annie and Carolyn Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Barry Duenas

Krispie Kremes has nothing on fresh warm Buñelos Aga – banana donuts. For the best results, make with local sweet bananas. The best foods work just as well for breakfast as dessert.

Ingredients:

2 cups mashed ripe bananas
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Vegetable oil (for frying)
Maple syrup, for dipping or glazing

Directions:

1. Place the oil in a large frying pan; turn the heat to medium to begin preheating the oil.

2. Mix all of the other ingredients thoroughly. It’s going to look like mashed up bananas, but firmer because of the flour. The batter will be very sticky but don’t be tempted to add more flour — this is the perfect ratio to make moist donuts. Adding too much flour will make them rubbery.

3.  When oil is hot, drop the mixture by spoonful into the oil, turning frequently. The Chamorro method is to scoop up a little bit of batter in your hand, then squeeze out a dollop of batter between your thumb and pointer.

4.  Deep fry over medium heat. Keep your stove settings on medium heat. If the oil it too hot, it will burn on the outside before the inside cooks.  Cook until golden brown.

5.  Serve with a side of maple syrup for dipping, or glaze all of the donuts with maple syrup.

6.  Drain on a paper towel and serve warm.

BBQ Chicken

By Rueben Olivas

Some people use the same marinade for short ribs as for chicken, here Rueben Olivas shares his own sweet chili sauce. BBQ over charcoal as close to the beach as you can get.

Ingredients:
2 ½ to 3 lbs of chicken wing drumlets and winglets.
1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup of water
1/2 cup of sugar
2 fresh hot peppers minced
2 cloves of fresh garlic minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 teaspoon water

Directions:

1. In a saucepan, combine together the water, vinegar and sugar.

2. Mix together until well blended. Bring to a boil until the sugar has been dissolved.

3. Add the hot pepper, garlic and salt, and boil for another 1 minute.

4. Add the cornstarch and boil until everything has blended together.

5. Allow this to cool before you use it for a marinade.

6. If you are going to use this sauce for a barbecue glaze, cooling is not necessary.

7. Wash and allow the chicken wings to drip dry. Place chicken wings in a re-sealable plastic bag with 1 cup of the sweet chili sauce.

8. Seal the bag and rotate to make sure the wings are well coated with the sauce. Chill for at least 4 hours before barbecuing.

9. Start the fire in your BBQ pit. You want to BBQ with medium heat. This is at about 350 to 450 degrees F. Use the thermometer in the lid/cover of your BBQ pit to measure the heat.

10. If you do not have a lid thermometer, here is another way to measure your heat. Hold the palm of your hand about 5 inches above the grill. If you can hold your hand there about 5 to 7 seconds, you can consider your heat to be medium.

11. Take you wings out of the chill box and allow them to reach room temperature before BBQ-ing. This should take about 20 minutes.

12. Grease up your grill and place the chicken wings down. Barbecue your wings about 15-20 minutes per side but make sure that you constantly turn them so that the sugar from the sweet chili sauce marinade does not burn. Total cooking time should be 30 to 40 minutes.

13. The last 5 minutes of cooking, coat the wings with the remaining cup of sauce for a nice, thick glaze.

14. Serve with white rice and your favorite sides.

Golfan Apai Lemmai

Recipe by Dr. Judy Flores

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Lemmai, also called breadfruit, grows in abundance on the island of Guam. The meat can be baked as is, or made into dough for frying. The best way to eat lemmai, is slow-cooked in golfan, coconut milk, until soft. This recipe can also be used with banana, yam, or any other starchy vegetable.

Ingredients:

1 large (3 to 5 lb) breadfruit
2 coconuts (milk extracted or a 12-ounce can of coconut milk may be substituted)
½ teaspoon salt
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar (optional)
Water

Directions:

1. Peel the breadfruit and cut into serving-sized pieces. Place in pot large enough to fit everything, with space on top to allow for boiling the coconut milk to bubble up.

2. Mix coconut milk and salt to taste, and add sugar if desired. Pour over the vegetables, so that everything is covered, but visible.

3. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and drop heat to low. When the mixture is åppan and the vegetables firm but soft, the dish is ready to serve.

Hotnon Babui

By Tanya Champaco Mendiola

Fresh roasted pork is moist and tender and should fall right off your fork. Though this recipe is as simple as it gets it takes a lot of love and patience to make the perfect hotnon babui. Even if made in a special oven, this dish is reserved for very special occasions.

Ingredients:

100 lb pig, cleaned
Water
Apple, cabbage for garnish

Directions:

1. Place pig on a spit and turn.

2. Using a brush, constantly baste with water.

3. Cooking time is generally 4 hours. Some chefs recommend to allow 1 hour cooking time for every 10 pounds.

4. Fina’denne’ or another condiment of choice can add flavor to the meat after it is cooked. Garnish with apple, cabbage, or ingredients of your choice.

Latiya

By Paula Quinene

The vanilla custard cake, latiya, just might be the reason why they invented desert. The island’s take on the Spanish natillas, latiya is served at the end any great celebration.

Ingredients:

Betty Crocker boxed pound cake mix
2 cans evaporated milk
2 cans worth of water
6 eggs, room temperature
½ cup cornstarch
4 teapoons vanilla extract
2/3 cups water
1 stick unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
Cinnamon for dusting

Tools: large pot, whisk, medium bowl, small bowl, two containers with 2-inch lip

Directions:

1. Bake cake as directed on box. Let cool and slice ½ inch thick. Arrange slices in a tray that has a 2-inch lip.

2. Pour milk into pot. Refill the two cans with water and pour into the pot. Add butter and sugar. Set pot on medium heat and stir occasionally. Bring to a gentle boil.

3. While waiting for the milk mixture to boil, beat the eggs and vanilla in a medium bowl. Set aside.

4. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and water.

5. When the milk mixture reaches a gentle boil, slowly pour in the eggs and vanilla as you quickly whisk the mixture in the pot. Ignore the shreds of eggs as this will not be evident in the final taste and texture. Stir constantly. Let this come to a gentle boil then add the cornstarch mixture. Stir and cook for two minutes.

6. Pour custard over cake and sprinkle with cinnamon. Cool uncovered in the fridge over night.

7. Slice into squares and serve chilled.

Lumpia

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

What is the Philippine’s greatest export? Food! Their fried spring roll has become a staple at the Chamorro fiesta table. Since they’re small, no one looks twice when you eat five.

Ingredients:

2 pounds ground pork, beef, or chicken
1 large russet potato, diced
1 large onion, diced
1 cup green beans, diced
1 large green bell pepper, diced
1 bag (10 oz) sliced carrots
1 bag rice noodles
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 can bean sprouts, drained
50 lumpia wrappers
Dashida Korean beef stock
Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Brown the ground meat with diced onions and garlic.

2. Add 4 tablespoons Dashida seasoning, and stir. Then add beans, carrots, potatoes, and bell peppers.

3. Soak the noodles in hot water until softened. Use kitchen shears to cut into small pieces, then add to pot with the other ingredients.

4. Finally add the bean sprouts.

5. Stir all of the ingredients together, and cook until the potatoes are almost done, but still firm. Add salt and pepper to taste.

6. Place a lumpia wrapper on a flat surface, then add 2 to 3 tablespoons of filling on one edge.

7. Tightly fold the edge over the filling, fold the sides toward the middle, and roll, stopping one inch from the edge.

8. Moisten the edge of the wrapper with water, and press gently to seal.

9. Fry in vegetable oil until golden brown.

10. Serve with dipping sauce.

Red Rice

By Paula Quinene

Red rice is the most iconic dish of the Mariana Islands. Rice made bright with achote is served alongside everything from BBQ to Thanksgiving turkey. Make any meal a fiesta by doctoring up your rice with this easy recipe.

Ingredients:

Calrose-style rice (short-grain)
5 ½ cups water, more as needed
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon bacon drippings
¼ cup chopped yellow onions
1 ½ teaspoon garlic powder
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
5 teaspoon seasoning salt
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons achote seeds

Directions:

1. In a medium pot, measure and rinse 5 cups of rice. Add 5 ¼ cups water (more water may be necessary while the rice cooks).

2. Add the oil, bacon drippings, and onions. Season to taste with seasoning salt, pepper, garlic powder, and salt so that it is quite flavorful. Set the pot on medium-high heat.

3. Place a strainer over the pot such that it is about 2 inches submerged into the liquid. Put the achote seeds into the strainer. As the liquid heats, the color and flavor will be released. Stir the seeds within the strainer constantly.

4. Boil the rice for 10 minutes, long enough to get a dark orange, almost red color. Stir the pot of rice occasionally to prevent the bottom from sticking and burning.

5. After the coloring is completed, remove the strainer with the seeds. At this time, if it looks like much of the water has been absorbed, add ¼ cup more water.

6. Stir rice. Cover the pot and steam for 10 minutes.

7. Check rice. If kernels are cooking and the rice looks to have enough water, scoop rice and steam another 15 minute. However, if the kernels are still quite opaque and rice looks dry, add a ½ cup more water. Do not stir cooked rice as stirring makes cooked rice mushy.

8. Check rice and repeat until rice is cooked. Use an ice cream scoop to serve perfect mounds of rice.

Shrimp Patties

Recipe by Annie and Hannah Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Who doesn’t love a good fritter? Made with mixed vegetables and shrimp, make these soft dough balls a decadent part of your daily meal. This recipe is made without eggs, for a denser dough.

Ingredients:

1 cup thinly sliced green beans
2 cups peas
1 cup chopped onions
3 cups corn kernels
4 cups shrimp, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 cans evaporated milk
3 cups all purpose flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
5 tablespoons Dashida seasoning
1 teaspoon Accent
1 teaspoon black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying

Directions:

1.  Heat the oil in a large frying pan. To test the heat, use the tip of a wooden spoon and dip it into the oil.  If little bubbles start to form around the wood, then the oil is hot and ready.
2.  While you’re waiting for the oil to heat up, mix all of the ingredients (except for the vegetable oil, of course) in a large bowl.
3.  Drop batter by the spoonful – about 1½ tablespoons each – into the hot oil and fry until golden brown.
4. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.

Tinala’ katne

By Tanya Champaco Mendiola

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Dried cured beef, tinala’ katne takes on a bright reddish color. Smokey and salty, this fiesta staple modernizes an old preservation technique.

Ingredients:

1 lb beef, thinly sliced
Cloves of garlic, crushed to taste
1/4 cup vinegar
Salt to taste (ocean or table salt can be used)
Pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Mix ingredients and rub on meat.

2. Hang to dry or place in an oven to dry.

3. Once dried, beef can be heated over a barbecue grill or in an oven before serving.

Tityas

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Tityas, Chamorro for tortilla, can be made with corn or flour. They are delicious chesa on their own, or can be used like a chip to scoop up kelaguen.

Ingredients:

3 cups all purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup coconut milk
1/4 cup melted butter
1/4 to 1/2 cup cream of coconut (the sweet one, used for mixed drinks, NOT coconut cream).

Directions:

1.  Mix the dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Add the coconut milk, melted butter, and cream of coconut (start out with 1/4 cup; increase to a total of 1/2 cup, depending on how humid your day is – more humid means less liquid). Mix together until dough forms; knead gently to form a smooth ball of dough.
2.  Break off golf-ball sized pieces. Flour rolling surface and rolling pin.  Roll out the piece of dough into a flat disc (about 1/8-inch thick). Place the titiyas on a dry skillet; prick all over with a fork to prevent bubbling during the cooking process.

3.  Pan-fry on a dry skillet over medium-low heat for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until the bottom begins to turn a golden brown; flip over and cook the other side until it turns a nice golden brown.  For thicker titiyas, cook over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side.

4. Titiyas is done when you gently press down on the center and it feels somewhat firm to the touch.

5.  Place cooked titiyas on a plate covered with a clean kitchen towel to keep warm.  Serve with chicken kelaguen.

Apigige’

By Paula Quinene

PHOTO SOURCE: Uploaded to Wikimedia by Abasaa

Apigige’ is a sweet mix of coconut and cassava, grilled in a banana leap. Served as a sticky snack or simple desert, apigige’ can be stored long term in the freezer.

Ingredients:
1 16 oz. bag banana leaves, cut into 8 in. long x 5in. wide pieces.
2 cups chopped/slivered young coconut (Two 20 oz. cans)
Two 16 oz packages of grated cassava (if frozen, thaw overnight, do not soak in hot water
1 cup young coconut juice
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

Directions:

1. Clean the banana leaves with a sponge and water. Wipe leaves with kitchen towel and set atop baking racks to dry.

2. Drain juice from coconut, saving 1 cup to set aside.

3. Finely slice the coconut.

4. In a medium bowl, combine the coconut meat, 1 cup of juice, grated cassava, and sugar to form a thick batter. Depending on the brand of cassava, it may be quite watery. If this is the case, pour your batter into a fine-mesh colander and drain out some of the liquid. Preheat griddle or grill to medium heat.

5. Apply 2 tablespoons of mixture at the bottom edge of banana leaf, centered, about 2 inches up from the bottom. Use 3 tablespoons for thick and big apigige’.

6. Spread mix into a 4 inch x 1.5 inch rectangle, or 5 inches long if using 3 tbsp.

7. Fold and roll like a flattened burrito.

8. Cook folded-side down until apigige’ has puffed up and bottom of banana leaves are charred, about 8 minutes.

9. You will see that the apigige’ has thickened. Flip to the other side for another 8 to 10 minutes, charring as well.

Cucumber Salad

Recipe by Annie and Carolyn Merfalen

Marinated in an island brine of soy sauce, vinegar, and hot pepper, the Chamorro spin on the cucumber pickle is perfect alongside red rice and ribs.

Ingredients:

2 large cucumbers

2 tablespoons salt

1 small onion, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup white vinegar

Directions:

1. Slice the cucumbers about 1/4 inch thick. Place the cucumber slices into a plastic colander then place the colander into a large bowl. Sprinkle salt over the cucumbers and stir to combine. Let the salted cucumber slices sit for about 15 minutes to allow excess water to drain out. After 15 minutes, pour out any water that drained into the bowl. Rinse the salt off the cucumbers and drain.

2. Place rinsed and drained cucumbers into the large bowl. Add the onion, garlic, soy sauce and vinegar. Stir to combine.

3. Let the cucumbers sit for several minutes to allow the cucumbers to soak up all of the flavors. Serve with your favorite meat dish!

All photos used with permission

It was a typical hectic morning at A.B. Won Pat International Airport in Guam. The majority of travelers were from Asia and were cueing up to the security checkpoint with bags full of luxury gifts and splurges. Their skin was burned lobster pink by the tropical sun and there was sleep in their eyes.

A few of the travelers that day were young Chamorros leaving Guam for the first time but for good. As one young man said his goodbyes, there were tears and tight embraces, but there was something more. Amid the gaggle of international tourists, a single Chamorro family encircled the young man, holding hands, and singing a well-known Chamorro song, “O Saina.” At first their song was quiet, but the volume and emotion rose as the family raised their arms heavenward in a blessing for their beloved son, brother, nephew, and cousin. There wasn’t a dry eye nearby. Even passersby were visibly moved by the send-off.

This single event perhaps crystalizes the Chamorro experience on Guam for a young person — a tight-knit circle of family nurturing and protecting, always aware that “getting off the rock” is a dream for many young Chamorros. Fewer and fewer seem content not to at least try a new life in the Mainland U.S. considering how easy immigration seems.

Other Chamorros marry a Mainlander and choose to raise a family near their in-laws. And some join the military and are stationed in the States. Whatever the reason for leaving, most Chamorros who migrate from Guam admit there are serious challenges. With the shifting politics and fragmented race relations in the U.S., Chamorros have to walk a tightrope to make their way successful.

Life in the Fast Lane

Not everyone from Guam has exhilarating vacations in the States. And some vacations to Mainland U.S.A. turn out to be a one-way trip. After arriving, some find traffic and high speeds to be natural, while others are shocked at the difference.

Speeding up to 60 mph on the curve near the post office in Barrigada or screeching to a stop at the bottom of the hill at Harmon Industrial, are hardly comparable to the high-speed breakneck driving of the Mainland. Harmless moves on the road are more stressful at high speeds. Of course, getting stuck in traffic on Guam is as frustrating as in any other place, but in the Mainland, traffic jams can stretch for miles rather than just blocks.

There is no such thing as “island time” when it comes to school, work, and social engagements, especially in big cities where Chamorros migrate like Seattle, San Diego, Sacramento, and even New York. Being late has far more consequences in the Mainland than in Guam and employers, teachers, and friends will be less forgiving. A “no show” is very bad form at the workplace or for a job interview in a place where who is know is far less important than what you know.

Travel and punctuality are comparatively trivial things that Chamorros in the Mainland U.S.A. have to deal with after moving. Coping with homesickness can be the worst of all challenges for Chamorros living outside Guam.

Homesickness

Island life is pretty isolated. Being tightly bound to family and having intimate connections across the island and then removing those relationships may give a migrant a serious case of homesickness.

Sharmayne Monique Perez Long is a Guam native now living in Sacramento, CA.

“My mom is from Dededo and my dad is from Sinajana, so the majority of my childhood in Guam was spent in those two villages,” she says.

She has a long list of things from home she misses.

“I miss my family and getting together with them at our grandma’s house or our family beach, the year-round warm weather, living island style, dancing for Famagu’on Guahan, legit fiestas, the summer carnival, mango trees, Chamorro Village, learning the Chamorro language in school, etc.”

Homesickness has a way of challenging some Guamanians over time. Others find the secret is visiting and making home a part of life again.

Gordon Lau, 58, of Bremerton, WA says, “I had the privilege to fly for the Air National Guard and was able to visit many times during my career, so even if I wasn’t living in Guam any longer, I was able to see and enjoy my home for short periods of time.”

Lau is originally from Yigo and moved to Indiana in 1976. “It was difficult knowing I would never come back to Guam to live,” he says.

Culture Shock

Perez Long has been living stateside since 2001 when she was a teenager and describes the challenges.

“Some of the difficulties of moving to the Mainland were the culture, the food, and the environment,” says Perez Long.

“Adjusting to the culture was difficult because I was used to being around the nationalities that are predominantly on Guam,” she says. “Adjusting to not only a new place, but new people with different perspectives, customs, and interests was a lot to grasp. The plus side was that people found me interesting because they’ve never heard of or didn’t know much about Guam. So it was and is still a great topic of conversation when I meet people.”

The large scale of everything is not to be ignored. Parents migrating their family to live in a city or even a superb should remember that the size and availability of so many new things and places can be overwhelming.

Food

Chamorro restaurants have popped up on the West Coast, but they’re still rare. This leaves islanders missing uniquely Guam goodies.

Perez Long recalls, “I wasn’t used to eating pizza (with ranch) or chicken strips and French fries for lunch at school. I was used to buying from the canteen that would park at my school in Guam and getting a lunch plate that had red rice, finadene, chicken kelaguen, and spare ribs. We definitely need a Chamorro food truck in Sacramento!”

Likely a Chamorro food truck would be welcome in many cities across the mainland because of the popularity of BBQ. There are several Chamorro groups in the U.S. that specialize in keeping the home fires burning, literally keeping the meat cooking over an open flame.

Perez Long says she misses more Chamorro foods and restaurants than she can name.

“Shirley’s fried rice, McDonald’s breakfast (spam and Portuguese sausage), the Chode store, what we called the “blue box” in Dededo which was a neighborhood stand that sold goodies (like pickled papaya, pickled mango, “sweet and sour”, etc.), are just a few of the things I miss from Guam,”

Can’t find a Chamorro restaurant near you in the Mainland? Link up with a local Chamorro group such as the North Carolina Chamorro Association or the Chamorro Association of Central Texas. Guam BBQ will never lose its flavor as long as faithful Guamanians keep putting the char on the beef, pork, and chicken.

Don’t Let Racism Get You Down

It won’t help anyone to leave out this most unfortunate topic. It’s better to be forewarned and forearmed. Guam residents living in the U.S. may have the same experience that Perez Long relates.

“On my first day of school, my first class was geography and my teacher mentioned that I was from Guam, so she asked me to show the class where Guam was on the map. Guam is obviously really tiny on a map and at the age of 11 or 12, not many kids know where or what Guam is. After I had shown the class where Guam was on the map, a classmate came up to me and asked, ‘Do you know what a VCR is? Did you live in a hut? Do they wear normal clothes in Guam?’ I was offended at first but later realized that it was a great opportunity to teach her about my culture and where I come from. We ended up becoming friends.”

Hopefully, for most migrating to the open spaces and large cities of continental U.S.A., there will be welcoming arms of family or other open-minded and progressive Americans. Better to be prepared for the opportunity to “teach” others about Guam than to be offended by comments from the misinformed. Racism can’t beat you up, but ignorant people can. Share Guam with everyone and make the ignorant person, more island-smart if possible.

Never Say Never

Considering a move back to Guam after meany years on the mainland Perez Long describes her feelings.

“I’m torn!” she says. “There’s definitely pros and cons to both. I’d say the mainland because of the opportunities and experiences I’ve had and have yet to take on. I’d say Guam because there’s no place like home, I miss it a ton, and I definitely get in my moments where I contemplate giving up everything I have, to go back and live the simple island life.”

If there is anything that is sure, It’s that things will change. Sometimes thing change for the better.

“To be honest, I haven’t kept up with the education on Guam, but if my husband and I were able to find good jobs and my son would get a quality education, I would consider moving back.”

Says Lau, “I prefer the mainland, but Guam will always be home.”

Are you a Chamorro living in the Mainland? What has been your experience there?

In August 2016, The Guam Guide published a post entitled, 7 Things You Need to Know About Marrying a Chamorro. It was written from the perspective of an outsider, specifically a person from Mainland U.S.A. interested in understanding Chamorro culture.

Were We Wrong? What You Had to Say

Some of our Chamorro readers agreed with the post, chuckled a bit at the similarities in their own families and lives, and shared it widely online.

A few other readers were offended by the article and/or disagreed with some of our points. (The Guam Guide is nothing if not a conversation starter about Chamorro culture on Guam.)

We nearly always answer reader emails and questions because well, we don’t claim to know everything about Chamorro culture! Secondly, we like hearing from you. And third, we value critical feedback, especially when it’s as articulate as the most recent reply to our marriage post.

A Letter to the Editor

Michelle N.B. Cruz wrote us on the subject with a bit of constructive criticism. Her response appears below, but first, her bio:

“I was born and raised on Guam, save a few years in my childhood and some post-college years spent living in the States. My mom is Chamorro, my dad is Caucasian, and my husband is Chamorro. I have three kids and am a former special education teacher and advocate for people with disabilities.”

Michelle agreed to have her email published and we hope it once again sparks conversation on the matter of inter-cultural marriage and Chamorro culture.

From a Chamorro: 7 Things You Need to Know About Marrying a Chamorro, Part 2

What follows is Michelle’s email in its entirety:

“First of all the family subsection had two statements that, in my opinion, are not accurate: the statement about the needs of the individual and the reference to one family matriarch. I completely agree that for the most part, the culture focuses on the family — but to imply that familial needs supersede that of one person, especially in an article about someone’s future husband or wife, seems unfair. Yes, we care about our families, but we would never choose the group’s happiness at the expense of our partner. And while some people may choose to do that, it is not something that can be applied to an entire group of people. Then the reference about the matriarch and how she can demand one’s child? No way! Yes, maybe years and years and years ago that could possibly happen and in some outer-island cultures, they might currently have practices where children are raised by family members other than their parents, but that is not commonplace. I would turn my back on my culture and family if anyone dared to take my child. Just no.

The section on money is also something I have absolutely seen and heard of, but it in no way is normal. We emphasize the family, so of course we try to help if someone is struggling, especially if it’s related to an illness or death. That isn’t Chamorro — that’s human goodness. Yet most people and families I know would discuss things as a core unit (partner to partner) to see how — or even if — they could help financially. The beautiful thing about our people, to me, is that when we see someone struggling and we know that we can’t help financially, we will do other things to help. Many of us research treatments/resources, work our connections to get information or help, or simply offer time and physical help to ease our loved ones’ burdens. We band together in times of hurt, pain, or distress — but we don’t hurt our “person” for anything… or at least, we try very hard not to.

I might have these definitions wrong, but I learned that pare’ and chenchule’ mean something different than what you wrote. A pare’ is a close family member or friend that you designate to be your child’s godfather; he is someone special to you that you feel will help raise your child, especially in the Catholic faith. To me, there is no higher honor and does not imply any type of preferential treatment or mandated favor in return. Chenchule’ is an offering (usually monetary) — something that your family can afford to contribute. It is never required and is done so in an effort to help a family as they celebrate a momentous occasion (wedding, birth, baptism, etc.) or as they grieve the loss of a loved one. You give what you can, when you can, and if you can.

Your section on death is, at least in my lifetime here, not true. When I was younger, we went to rosaries because our parents made us, not because our community required it of us. Yes, when you were younger, you had no choice in the matter. When you grew up, though, you went because you wanted to – you wanted to pray for the person who passed and support the family that remained. You take time off work if you can, you put off less important obligations if you can – you don’t do things because they’re required of you … Wait. I take that back. If your Mom or your Grandma tells you that you HAVE to go, then you have to. But really, that’s not a Chamorro thing. That’s pretty universal.

I hope my feedback was a little helpful. I got the impression your article was based on certain peoples’ experiences or bits and pieces of stories/articles from long ago. That feedback could absolutely be 100% accurate according to your sources … but please know that it isn’t true for all of us.”

Sources on Chamorro Culture

When producing content about Guam and Chamorro culture, we seek expert sources as well as sourcing anecdotal experiences from friends and acquaintances on Guam. Those expert sources include University of Guam history and cultural professors, Guampedia, and historical works written about Micronesia.

On the subject of chenchule’, here’s what Guampedia has to say:

Chenchule’ today is demonstrated most obviously at celebrations of life milestones—taking the form of different types of labor, food, drink or other supply contributions, gifts, or money at occasions such as weddings, childbirth, and funerals. At such events, a chenchule’ box usually graces the gift table, decorated in a specific design (such as a treasure chest, water well, or theme character) or is otherwise made attractive. Guests insert envelopes of money, labeled with their family names and oftentimes village of residence, through a slot on the box’s top. At weddings, chenchule’ can also be found on the dance floor during a money dance in which guests line up to dance with the bride or groom and pin paper money onto the newlywed’s garments during their turn.

On the subject of money, individualism vs. collectivism, and adoption, read Making Sense of Micronesia, which was recommended to our editor by Dr. Kelly Marsh of UOG.

Why Letters to the Editor Are Important to The Guam Guide

Michelle was not only articulate, but gracious and thanked the editor. She said: “Thanks again for reaching out. Your response is incredibly impressive and indicative of your character and what seems to be your desire to learn more about the island and its people — even if their experiences differ from your own.”

Thanks to Michelle and all our readers!

Have something to say about a post on The Guam Guide? Email the editor at webmaster [at] theguamguide [dot] com.

As a busy student working to earn your online MBA degree, you may be looking for a way to celebrate the completion of your degree or perhaps a spring break getaway. When researching destinations you may want to look into all Guam has to offer. It provides you with a chance to step out of your normal everyday life and get a whole other perspective. These are the exact kinds of experiences that can help you when you set out into the workforce yourself.

To help you make the most of your trip to Guam, we’ve put together a list of tips.

Prepare for Something Different

While technically Guam is part of the United States, it couldn’t be more different. Located four hours from Tokyo, Manila, Seoul, and Hong Kong, it’s sure to provide a unique and eye-opening experience. If you are traveling there thinking it will be an extension of the U.S., you’ll be in for a big surprise. While this isn’t a typical vacation destination, it doesn’t mean it’s not well worth visiting. In fact you’ll find some of the most beautiful scenery, wildlife, and ocean life imaginable.

Traveling Around by Car

If your plans are to rent a car and tour the island on yourself, it’s important to note that the roads aren’t always in great condition. They can be rough, not well-travelled, and go through some rather interesting terrain. As well, the rules of the road aren’t always abided by, so it’s important to be aware and drive safely. If your plan was to rely on public transportation, then you’ll be out of luck as there is no public transportation system.

READ: 15 Things to Know Before You Go to Guam

Average Costs While Touring the Island

As with most island destinations, things tend to cost a bit more. The island has to bring many things in, so there is a premium that needs to be charted. Hotel taxes tend to be pretty steep, tourists attractions can be pricy and even eating at local restaurants isn’t cheap. If you are prepared for these costs before you go, then you’ll be better equipped to handle the prices.

READ: 6 Guam Hotels for Every Budget

Be Prepared for Hot Weather

It really doesn’t matter what time of year you visit Guam, you’re in for hot weather. It’s just a matter of how hot it truly is. There is also a lot of humidity on the island with the rainy season taking place between July and December. You will want to pack plenty of loose, cool, and lightweight clothing. Ideally, the best time to visit is between January and March when temperatures are at their coolest and rainy season hasn’t yet begun.

Set a Budget Before You Leave

This last tip isn’t necessarily Guam specific, but can be used for any vacation. By setting a budget before you leave you won’t come home to a nasty bill you weren’t expecting.

READ: Travel by Numbers: What to Eat, See & Do on Guam with Any Budget

An Enriching Experience

A trip to Guam can act as an enriching cultural experience that only helps you to understand the ways in which different people live around the world. It can be that welcome break from your online MBA programs.

READ: Understanding Chamorro & Micronesian Culture on Guam

There are two words to accurately describe what a person possesses to remain vegan on an island rich with flavorful, hearty, marinated meat dishes, and top choice steak cuts in restaurant menus. Vim and vigor. The dictionary defines “vim” as robust energy and enthusiasm, and “vigor” as either an active bodily or mental strength or force or and an active, well-balanced growth especially of plants. You definitely are what you eat, in this case.

So the question is, how much vim and vigor do you need to start a vegan diet in Guam? Is it even possible?

What is veganism and is it really good for you?

Being vegan is going on an all plant-based diet that is typically long-term or permanent. No consumption of dairy or anything from animals and its by-products is allowed. You have become a primary consumer in the food chain receiving the more energy transferred directly from plants than secondary consumers do.

Eating meat puts us higher on the food chain, but science has shown that the higher we are the more toxins we take in because of what was consumed by what we consumed. For example, if we eat meat from a large tuna (a carnivorous animal) it consumes other fish and the toxins it had. Mercury has been found to be in higher levels in larger fish.

Naturally, if what we consume is an energy-making organism, we consume what it makes. It is not a quick weight loss diet, but many have testified to dropping pounds. I am one of them. I will tell you my reasons for going vegan and the remarkable journey as a foodie and a self-schooled personal chef. I’ll also explain why vim and vigor comes readily to those on this diet. More importantly, I’ll show you to where to find vegan-friendly grocery stores and restaurants on Guam.

Pre-menopausal syndrome

It all started as conversation with high school friends. Nothing gets you started on the subject of aging than meeting up with your old high school buddies. One thing that struck me as common amongst us women approaching or in our early 40’s, was being diagnosed with pre-menopausal syndrome. Some of us were menstruating at least twice a month. Some doctors attributed it to stress. Other doctors were telling us that if pre-menopausal syndrome was left untreated, it would increase our risk of developing ovarian cancer.

As soon as I hear that, I was informed that my best friend, my basketball teammate in high school, was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. It hit close to home. Could it happen to me? To any of us? I strongly believed lifestyle changes had to happen immediately. I was always physically active, but knew I had to shed several pounds, and I knew I had to have a better diet to lower the risk factors.

Making vegan vows

I was a vegetarian for one year back in my early 20’s, but what I remembered getting out of it was weight gain, a sweet tooth, and eating a lot of bread. I grew up liking vegetables, and for years I became more aware of how my body reacted to not only eating meat, but certain types of food.

Beef and pork often gave me slight headaches. It was like Russian Roulette on my stomach, battling lactose intolerance and seafood-induced indigestion. Hit or miss. I heard about veganism and thought it was a little extreme.

Vegans do not eat anything that has a “mother or eyes.” I’ve done all kinds of diets for weight loss, and detoxes and colon cleanses. Through my research I learned that being vegan accomplished all of that in a milder way and on a daily basis. I needed to restrict myself from the refined carbs and breads, so I decided to try it out for at least one month. The one month turned into two, three, six, and then I decided to go for the whole year. After that first month, I easily lost 20 pounds.

The effect of chemicals in meat

What was more remarkable was that my menstrual cycle was regular again, and remained that way for the whole year. After that year, I took a break, and within that month of eating meat again, the pre-menopausal syndrome returned.

I would return to being vegan for one month, and I would get it only once that month. The next month, I took a break again, and made sure to lessen my intake of chicken, but my period still came twice a month. At that point, I was sure that whatever meat I was eating was causing my system to get out of whack. I didn’t need research to confirm that there were enough chemicals in the meat to stimulate a reaction in my body.

From vegetarian to vegan

This may not be so drastic a step for people with food allergies and those who already love eating vegetables. There are many vegetarians who have crossed over to the raw, greener side, and onto veganism.

Here’s how to do it…

If eating vegetables is a struggle, mix it with other foods that are more palatable for you, until you acquire the taste for it. Little by little, is the key. You will feel differently about vegetables when you notice a change in your body. Your appearance will improve from your complexion to weight loss, to your internal functions. Veganism can lead to more regular, pliant bowel movements. Your body will feel like a well-oil machine inside. If meat accidentally finds itself in your mouth, don’t give up. Keep trying.

Consult your physician before changing your diet. People with low iron may do poorly. Side effects include hair loss and energy depletion. Some people may experience deficiencies in vitamins and minerals if they do not provide their bodies with nutrient-rich meals, especially adequate amounts of calcium and protein substitutes.

My dramatic weight loss

My dramatic weight loss prompted my co-workers to invest in my diet. They would pay me to make vegan foods for them so they could join the weight-loss competition at work. Before that, I survived on vegan stir-fry, vegan shakes, and meat substitutes.

As I took on the task, it was like a treasure hunt for ingredients that would lead me to create vegan versions of local dishes and international cuisines. It lead me to discover a wide variety of exotic greens and innovative ways to use vegetables. If you see the challenge as an adventure then this will become an exciting journey as it was for me. Discoveries are made by looking at an ordinary vegetable and seeing how it is used in a totally unexpected way, or eating something you would’ve never dared eaten and found it delicious. I enjoyed looking deeper into an aisle in the supermarket and finding strangely appetizing meat substitutes. I saved money by ordering foods in bulk online with only a $10 shipping charge.

Cost and effect

Many people believe that going vegan is expensive. It is actually quite economical when you know where to find inexpensive, quality vegetable produce, and when you cut expenses on buying meat, even if you are the only vegan at home.

My children found their portion of homemade lunch meals increase. More meat and more veggies. All I did was prep vegetables such as chopped Chinese cabbage, sliced bell pepper, and kept stock a package of mushrooms, canned bamboo shoots and a bag of beans sprouts. When hungry, I would drizzle the pan with sesame oil and stir fry the vegetables in Mongolian-BBQ fashion. My kids loved it.

Steps to going vegan on Guam

Step 1: Love vegetables

Have three servings of vegetables every day. Think of vegetables as:

Toxin removers. On a cellular level, plant cells have larger vacuoles (storers of toxins) than animal cells. The more greens you eat, the more ammunition you give your body to fight toxins.

Fuel for the body. Elimination of toxins helps the body from feeling fatigue.

Complexion improvers. Observe, people who come from countries with diets high in vegetable intake have smooth, and radiant skin complexions. (i.e., Vietnamese, Korean, Mediterranean diets). Vegetables are high in antioxidants that fight free-radicals which speed up the aging process.

Step 2: Target read labels

Check the package of certain foods that have a V logo to indicate vegan certified, or read the back package on the nutritional information and hone in on the word “contains.” Sometimes it may say “made in a factory that uses milk or eggs.” The choice is yours whether or not to consume such a product.

Step 3: Meal prep with a protein

Chop vegetables and put in resealable containers, and baggies to take with you. Chopped vegetable can be stir-fried or added into soups throughout the week. Fifty percent protein substitutes and fifty percent vegetables need to be in your serving for the three main meals. Have frozen vegetables stocked at all times, as well as canned beans. They are easy to pack and warm up, and with the right seasonings make a totally different recipe than the last one.

Step 4: Choose your terms

How long you want to try out being vegan is up to you. You may crave meat at times and give in, but the goal is to get back on your feet quickly. You’ll find ways to stick to the diet longer the next time around.

Step 5: Know what’s in-store

Discover a whole new world of food. Bring home different types of vegetables and look for new and interesting recipes. Subscribe to online vegan newsletters for recipes. Know where to shop for items you need to complete your recipe.

Below is a guide listing stores to shop and become familiar with. To learn about the nutritional content and health benefits of local vegetables read, Is it Healthier to Eat Local? Part 1 and Part 2.

5 vegan-friendly grocery stores on Guam

Dededo Flea/Farmer’s Market

You can get good bargains for already cheap prices on vegetables. Get great deals on egg plant, which is a good source of protein. Vegetable stands carry many varieties of leafy green vegetables: kangkung, squash tips, and bok choy. They also carry cucumber, sweet potatoes, taro, daikon radish and fresh cherry tomatoes.

This is the place to find the most exotic, locally popular fruits and vegetables: Manila bananas, jackfruit, guava, sour sop to winged beans, fresh bamboo shoots and the potent bittermelon.

GOTTA TRY: A few stands sell a dessert called Taho’ that’s a delight for vegans. Silken tofu submerged in sweet brown sugar syrup, topped with tapioca pearls, it’s often served warm, and sells out before the pot cools down.

Healthy Hearts

In a quiet corner in Dededo village lies a little store and cafe that serves up weekly flavorful vegan
dishes, and carries a wide selection of organic, gluten-free, and eco-friendly products. It’s a store that
is passionate about providing products to customers who want to achieve optimum health.
Whether it’s edible items, household cleaning items or alternative medicines, you get a good
sense that the store owners have put their heart and soul into the business. To see their weekly
menu visit their website.

GOTTA TRY: Organic green tea soba & vegan pies

Simply Food Store

For hard to find ingredients you need to complete a vegan recipe, head over to Simply Food Store
in Agana Heights where you can purchase meat substitutes, egg replacers as a binder for baking
recipes. They carry bulk-size bags of nuts, dried fruit, all sorts of grains and even dates for vegan smoothies. You’ll gain more inspiration and ideas to try new recipes as you walk through the winding shelves that are always fully stocked and if you decide to purchase one of a vast
selection of cookbooks.

Pay-Less Supermarket Micronesia Mall

Pay-Less carries a vast selection of dairy substitutes from butter to mozzarella cheese in different vegan brands, Daiya and Vegan Gourmet. The store has a section called Health Smart, located right after the vegetable produce area and begins with the beverage section — organic, antioxidant rich, and for cleansing. The section carries the largest selection of refrigerated and frozen organic food, fun and exotic ready-to cook plant-based, or fiber-rich meal packages.

Always in stock are the Tofurky brand of sausages that come in many different flavors, Kielbasa, Italian sausage to name a few, and deli slices like ham, bologna, pepperoni. Other meat substitutes are tempeh and soy chorizo. Plentiful are plant-based milks in cartons or in UHT boxes, you can choose from to go with the organic cereal and grains.

GOTTA TRY: Fresh squeezed juices mixed with carrots.

Happy Mart

Situated near the Barrigada tri-intersection, this small mom and pop store has transformed over
the years into a competitive grocer in offering many organic, vegetarian and vegan products at
competitive prices, especially in their vegetable produce section. You get the feeling the store owner must be vegetarian with so many little things that a vegetarian craves, needs for nutritional supplementation, or just can’t simply do without.

The store is well stocked with a great selection of mushrooms, varieties of the freshest looking lettuce, fresh spinach in packages that are priced no more than $2.99. The grocers do such an excellent job in bringing in interesting items in the produce section just about every week. I look forward to finding “microgreens” that I can add to my meals. Dried and canned beans are priced lower here than other stores. Popular vegetarian/vegan brands such as Tofurky, Light Life, Gardein and Morning Star meat substitutes are found to be cheaper and always well stocked. The Veganaise, mayonnaise substitutes priced at $4.99 practically flies off the shelf.

GOTTA TRY: Young jackfruit meat. Sold in cans you can only find here. It is an excellent substitute
for meat in soups and as shredded pulled pork with barbecue sauce.

Honorable Mention

American Grocery in Dededo has by far the cheapest fresh vegetables, wide selection of leafy greens.
Gail Lan is one vegetable you can find there, also known as Chinese broccoli. There are many other leafy greens that are great for soups, salads and stir-fry. Bags of potatoes are priced at $2.99. Cilantro and parsley at about $0.79 a bundle. Asian foods section take five aisle:s Japanese, Filipino, Chinese to Korean. They carry canned vegetables from these countries, sauces, various spices and herbs, and large selections of dried items: noodles, seaweed, nori, lichens and flowers.

GOTTA TRY: Snow fungus. It’s a great substitute for meat, since it has a texture like beef tripe (used in many Filipino dishes especially kare kare), is fat-free, and has no pungent smell.

In the next article, we will discuss where to fine vegan-friendly restaurants. I will also be sharing vegan recipes that are easy to make with interesting ingredients. Stay tuned!

Story by Amanda Pampuro. Photos by Jessica Peterson at Ypao Mart in Tamuning. 

In some ways, the mom ‘n pop store and Guam have a lot in common: on the outside, you might see a weather-beaten building with a strange name, but once you go in, you will find no shortage of surprises. Every village has one, most have many. On the counter next to the register you will find sweet, salty, and spicy never-fail favorites.

From Yigo to Merizo, and A (almost) to Z—if you believe in exploring culture through food, this is the place to start:

• Ah Market in Mangilao
• Blueberry Mart in Malojloj
• Chode in Hagåtña
• Dededo Retail
• Econo Mart in NCS
• Fine Store in Dededo
• Gangnam Mart in Tamuning
• Happy Mart in Barrigada
• Imma Market in Yigo
• John B’s in Dededo
• Kim Chee Agat
• LP Water Ice and Mart in Barrigada
• The Mini Camachile Store in Yona
• New Campus Mart in the gateway to the University of Guam
• OS7 Mart in Mangilao
• Prime Mart in Dededo
• Song Market in Chalan Pago
• Tokyo Mart in Hagåtña or Tamuning
• UR Market in Dededo
• Victoria J in Mangilao
• Wusstig Market in Yigo
• Ypao Market in Tamuning
• YY Mini Market in Dededo

In a Pickle

Like the olde candy shop, the counter of the mom ‘n pop shop is lined with bright orange and green jars. Instead of sweets, however, these unmistakable crocks are swimming with pickles. Besides the usual pickled cucumber, you will find eggs, papaya, mango, daigo, and other rotating seasonal experiments.

If you have yet to dare, the pickled egg is less crazy than it sounds. Slightly rubbery in texture, it has a strong and distinct eggy taste, but gets better as your taste buds adjust. Say hello to Hello Mart in Chalan Pago to get pickled eggs for 75 cents each, and eight pickles for a dollar. The usual brine has a vinegar and boonie pepper base. Since the spiciness varies from store to store, each taste is a bit of an adventure.

Baked (So) Good

The little baggies of Chamorro Chip cookies they hand out on the plane are just the tip of an icing-covered iceberg. Look for munchkin-sized lamai donuts made with breadfruit and covered in powdered sugar, banana-based buñelos aga, and yam-based buñelos dågu. One of the most popular fried dough balls is the classic Typhoon Donut, a minimalist recipe of baking soda, coconut milk and flour that can be scrapped together after a storm.

Beside these sweet, cakey munchies, look for the crunchy sugar covered cookies in Chode’s down on 9th Street in Hagåtña. Rosettes are the delicate-looking flowers covered in cinnamon sugar, and like the swirl-shaped rosketti, they are made with a cornstarch base. Being very dry, rosketti are made to melt in your mouth. Guyria, the hard knuckle-shaped cookie, is sometimes packaged to be given as a souvenir, but like any dessert it also makes a fine gift for yourself.

Don’t Call It a ‘Hand Pie’

A favorite leftover from the Spanish era, the Chamorro empanada is quite distinct from what you will find in Mexican or Cuban cuisine. With achiote powder in the crust and in the filling, you will know it at once by its bright orange color. The shredded chicken and red rice filling has a bit of a kick from more boonie peppers and is fried to a crisp in its tortilla-like shell. Try to get empanadas before 8 a.m. when they are still hot. And good luck finding empanadas in the afternoon—Tenorio Home Industry only delivers them once daily and runs out fast.

Sandwich of the Rising Sun

The mom ‘n pop shop usually has simple tuna and egg salad sandwiches like you might make for yourself at home, but in the next basket over there lies the musubi. A Japanese snack food, musubi is as quick to eat as a rice sandwich, which it kind of is. Typically, you will find Spam or tuna salad on top of this seasoned rice cube, wrapped in a crispy nori leaf. There may also be fast food sushi in a roll or cut in slices, filled with Spam or tuna salad, daigo, cucumber, rice, and egg. For a full Japanese Bento, visit Tokyo Mart by GPO in Tamuning, which also serve hot plates twice daily. This oishi carry-over food is a picture worth putting on a postcard.

Last, But Not Least

Endemic to the Mariana Islands, kelaguen is a must-have. Though it can be made with deer, steak, crab, and shrimp in the mom ‘n pop, you will most likely find the timeless lemon-marinated chicken kelaguen, wrapped in a flour tortilla.

Try something different every time you visit the mom ‘n pop shop, and there will be no missing it. Whenever someone gives you directions, they will use the store—whichever is nearest—as a landmark. You will either “go past the store,” or “turn at the store,” and “if you get to the other store, you’ve gone too far.” Since you are already there, you might as well stop and get a bite to eat.

By Rose Hansen

Ritidian Point may be famed for its powdery, white sand and jeweled waters, but beyond the splendors of its shoreline lies much to see. The beach itself is just the ornamental fringe of the 1,203-acre Guam National Wildlife Refuge, home of Marianas fruit bats, crows, and tree snails, plus significant remnants of ancient Chamorro culture. A fully-explored day at Ritidian will yield lattes, water wells, and pottery fragments—evidence of the once-thriving Chamorro village that likely predated the 1521 arrival of the Spanish by more than five hundred years.

Thanks to well-maintained trails that are open and free to the public, visiting these sights is easy. For a more intellectual experience, call the Guam National Wildlife Refuge (671-355-5096) ahead of time to schedule a guided tour that offers detailed information about the archeological sites. But if you’re like me, it’s just as enjoyable to forge your own way and stumble through history without holding someone else’s hand.

All trailheads are accessible from the main parking lot, but it’s more fun to follow the beach road through the jungle toward the southern point of the refuge. At its end is an alternate trailhead. En-route, you’ll spot several shaded pull-outs for cars and bonus beach access.

Unless closures are present, the refuge offers three trails: Nature (1.25 miles), .75 Latte Loop (.75 miles), and Ritidian Caves (.5 miles). Thanks to even grades and heavy shade, these trails are family-friendly for even very small children. There are also benches to rest on if you need to take or breather or just enjoy the surroundings. If you visit after a recent rain, watch your footing because the ground can get slick and the occasional upraised root or branch may catch lollygaggers by surprise.

But… lollygagging is completely understandable.

To beat the heat and sticky jungle air, head out early in the morning. Plus, most of those pesky mosquitos will still sleeping. But best of all? You’ll have everything to yourself. Save the crowds, barbecue, and party music for Tumon. In Ritidian, you’ll find a glimpse of Eden.

The nature trail follows the edge of a dense coconut grove, a throwback to Ritidian’s plantation days in the early 20th century. Today, geckos and toads skitter the ground, and if you’re very lucky, a monitor lizard. And every time you near the beach, you’ll start spotting butterflies.

These are blue-banded king crow butterflies, exclusive to the Marianas Islands and Palau. Its trademarks are blue dots on flexed wings as large as an outstretched palm. Even the most rambunctious children will be graced with close encounters with these whimsical, social insects.

Once away from the beach, the lush jungle is speckled with golden light. The Latte Loop Trail tours visitors past a preserved latte, a depression in the ground whose crater marks a centuries-old Spanish stone well, and hugs the feet of soaring limestone cliffs.

These cliffs are Ritidian’s grand finale. Anytime you near them, it seems a kind of reverence sets in. The limestone is adorned with clusters of caves, stalactites and stalagmites, and even the occasional natural arch. The Ritidian Caves trail ends at what some visitors refer to as “the cathedral,” a point in the cliffs where the limestone unzips to let in thick shafts of light and cascades of vines. Banyan trees hover overhead. True to its nickname, the spot feels nothing short of a place of worship. And given the sacred regard that Chamorros hold for banyans, Ritidian might just be as holy as it feels.

Getting There

Access Ritidian via Route 3A from the Route 9/Route 3 interchange approximately 6 miles from the refuge headquarters. Travel north on Route 3A for 4.5 miles, then turn left and continue downhill 1.5 miles to the refuge. The road is heavily potholed, so drive carefully if you’re in a sedan. And be sure to stop at the scenic overlook. On clear days, Rota is visible!

Swimming is not recommended due to strong currents. Lock all vehicles and take valuables with you.

Never forget: you’re on an island. Every hour can be ‘happy hour’ and every drink can have a little paper umbrella in it, even the beer. Even the coffee. Let’s make this a thing.

All-You-Can-Drink Specials

Sometimes you wish happy hour could last all night and when the sign says “all you an drink,” it might as well. Abandon Ship, a bar that loves its puns, has designated Monday as ‘Red Solo Cup Day.’ At this bar, next to the Slingshot in Tumon, $15 grants your cup unlimited refills of Budweiser from 9 p.m. to midnight. What do you do after midnight, with a table-full of cups? Since you’ve already warmed up, it’s time to ask the bartender for ping-pong balls.

Really, the view from the Beach Bar at Gun Beach can’t be beat any day of the week, but on Tuesdays it’s ladies’ night and their drinks are on the house. Plus one for feminism!

April confirmed that Pints in Hagåtña is back in business with weekday happy hour specials and Saturday open bar for $20. Whether you’re inside or outside, you’ll find yourself sitting under the stars. Besides the out-of-this-world artwork, Pints is home to one the island’s best rotating taps.

Look for Yoko Zuna on the North end of Tumon, down the street from the Westin. This quiet Japanese restaurant, with its traditional floor seating and succulent yakitori, has a lovely patio lit by bright red lanterns. As the sun goes down and Pale San Vitores Boulevard lights up, enjoy all-you-can-drink Budweiser for $10 a person on weekdays from 5 to 7 p.m.

Happy Views

If you have good seats and pay attention to the sunset, you might be lucky enough to catch the last green flash of the day. Pick a spot on the west side of the island—Tumon Bay, Hagåtña Bay, or Asan for equally awesome sights.

The Grille at Santa Fe has an intimate patio on the beachfront of Hagåtña Bay with nightly acoustic music. Drink specials run from 2 to 8 p.m., including Bud family buckets, 5 cans for $13 or bottles for $14, and $5 Bud and Miller on tap. Amberbock and Stella Artois are also on tap for $5.50 and premium pina coladas and margaritas for $6.

Nothing beats a cold IPA at Sunset Grill, voted ‘Best Happy Hour Spot‘ by the Guam Guide readers and editors alike. This cool terrace over the beach, frequented by divers, bikers, and biologists, has live music on Friday and Saturday. They don’t serve french fries, but who needs french fries when you have the best grilled pizza and slow-roasted BBQ brisket on island? Stop by Monday, Wednesday and Friday, for 50 cents off domestic beers, a dollar off all beer on Tuesday, and a dollar off drafts on Friday. If you hit Harley Davidson in Asan, you’ve gone too far down Marine Drive, but you’re close.

Some people need to end the day with a shot of espresso, not tequila. Sit back on the Hagåtña beach front of Tu Re’ Café and listen to smooth jazz. Here, the sea is always turquoise, the sky is dotted with parasails, and rain clouds seem so far away.

2 for 1

It’s five ’til five and we have time for one happy hour math problem. Say the sign outside Restaurant A says, “Buy one, get one free,” and the sign outside Restaurant B says, “Half off all drinks.” Which is a better deal?

A. Restaurant A because one drink is free.
B. Restaurant B because two halves equal a whole.
C. Let’s go to both, and figure it out after!

If you chose A, then Mix@Cha Cha Cha on the lobby floor of Westin Resort Guam is the place to go, especially if you’re the one buying! Buy-one-get-one drink specials start at 5 o’clock on their screw driver, vodka tonic, gin and soda, Southern Comfort and Coke, and Miller is on draft. This classy lounge also has a panorama of Tumon Bay that beats the postcards.

If you chose B, then pull off the highway—ahem, Marine Corps Drive—at Applebees, where happy hour is whenever you have time. Stop by from 2 to 7 p.m. or after 9 p.m. for half-off drinks and appetizers, including chicken quesadillas, spinach dip, wonton tacos, and mozzarella sticks. Special drinks include Sangria, Long Island Iced Tea, and draft beers: Miller, Fosters, Red Orchard, and Henry Weinhard’s Woodland IPA.

Of course, C. was the correct answer all along. No question about it. Class dismissed.

Wednesdays with Wheeler

Radio host and local celeb, Andy Wheeler, can be found imbibing and hanging out at Chili’s Margarita Bar on Wednesdays from 5-9 p.m. Take advantage of drink and appetizer specials (half off wings!) and get to know this funny guy.

Only On Guam

At the end of the day, nothing beats packing a cooler with ice and your favorite drink, and just kicking back on the beach with good friends. The beach, after all, has no dress code, no cover charge, and no last call.

Ague Cove is a hidden gem in Guam’s suburban village of Dededo. Find the old FAA housing area, park, and walk a quarter of a mile to the trailhead.

As with any hike on Guam, it is best to get permission before hiking on private land and respect no trespassing signs.

According to NOAA Science and Operations Officer Roger Edson, Jesus Pangelinan is the contact for those who wish to hike on this private land. Mr. Pangelinan can be reached at (671) 477-9269.

Stop just before the trailhead to admire the untouched beauty of this scenic spot.

The trail is a moderate hike down in dry weather, but can be slippery during and after rain.

Descend a winding trail through the jungle some 200 feet and you will be rewarded with this view.

This is Ague Cove, yet another Guam site that looks like the set of “Survivor.”

Buyer beware, Ague Cove is not for the faint of heart. I haven’t told you about the hike back up yet. However, the real danger isn’t the threat of cardiac arrest on the steep climb up the cliff, it’s the pounding waves and nebulous undertow. Combine that with razor sharp coral, and Ague Cove can be dangerous.

Just hours before my hike to the cove, two swimmers were picked up by emergency services. Only one survived. Of course, I didn’t know about this during my hike, but it’s a sobering reminder to always take safety precautions in Guam waters.

Read our Safety Tips for Hiking on Guam.

Adventurous types will climb the coral outcrops for stunning views of the insistent waves and coastline and will even jump off. Again, a safety caution — watch where you land and don’t try this if you aren’t a strong swimmer. It was challenging to stay in the cove during high tide and resist being pulled out by the undercurrent.

In conclusion, wear swim shoes, pack plenty of water and snacks, and make a half a day out of this excursion. There’s shade along the perimeter of the cove for families to relax and simply admire yet another of Guam’s natural beauty spots.

Read more about Guam’s Family Friendly Hikes.

Guam is a tropical island in the Western Pacific known for its beaches, villages, architecture, history, and hiking trails. Many tourists visit Guam every year to experience island life, explore its clear water beaches, and shop. Guam’s tropical climate is hot and humid year-round, so you’ll need to pack accordingly.

Layers

Guam can get very hot in the summer season. However, because of its tropical climate, you should still expect warm showers. The weather can be quite unpredictable so if you want to enjoy your break no matter what, it’s a good idea to pack layers. You’ll want a lightweight waterproof jacket and waterproof shoes at least. Light layers will allow you to stay cool and dry while exploring and enjoying the great scenery Guam has to offer. Shop now…

Sunscreen

The sun in Guam is incredibly powerful and without sunscreen, you could burn very quickly. Be sure to pack some with a very high SPF, even if you don’t usually burn. Always apply at least 15 minutes before going outside and then regularly throughout the day, especially after going in the water. Shop now…

Sun Hats and Sunglasses

If you are traveling with children it’s a good idea to pack a few sun hats, as they tend to lose them. Even if it’s an adult only trip, you’ll want to pack hats to protect you from the sun and help you to avoid sunstroke. Sunglasses with UV protection are also important, especially on the water where the sun reflects. Shop now…

Swimwear

Guam offers gorgeous white sand beaches to lie on, as well as plenty of water sports and activities to try, so you will want to make sure you’ve got some great swimwear to help you to feel confident and comfortable. As you will be spending a lot of time on the beach or in the sea, it’s a good idea to pack everyone at least two sets of swimwear for the trip. If you’re going diving, you can rent body skins and wet suits, but it’s always nicer to pack your own. For snorkeling or surfing, pack a rash guard to protect your skin from Guam’s sharp coral.

Choosing the right swimwear for your trip can be tough especially if you are a little older. Check out this guide on swimsuits for older woman if you need help. Shop now…

Insect Repellent

Whenever you travel to a different country, especially one with a different climate, it’s a good idea to pack insect repellent. Insect repellent is now available in sprays, gels, or even wipes so it couldn’t be easier to use. Insects are often out more at night, so make sure that you protect yourself before going to bed. Shop now…

Electronics

While you may want to use your holiday as a chance to take a break from electronics you will probably want to take at least one gadget. Smartphones are often a must-have, but you may also want to consider taking a waterproof camera or phone protector to use while you’re splashing around, snorkeling, or even diving. You may also want to take a tablet, game console, or e-reader to keep yourself or your family occupied on the journey. Whatever electronics you want to take with you, remember to pack your chargers, some headphones, and an adapter. Pick up a SIM card once you arrive on Guam to avoid costly roaming charges.

Currency

Guam uses the U.S. Dollar, so if you are traveling from the United States you won’t need to worry about converting any currency. However, it is a good idea to protect your money. One way to do this is by taking a travel credit card. This can also help you to make sure you don’t overspend while you are away. Get 60,000 bonus miles now…

Documents

Be sure to pack any documents you need in a safe folder in your hand luggage bag, so they are easy to find when you need them. This could include your passports, tickets, flight information and hotel booking documents. Double check with your airline and hotel to make sure you have everything that you need before you travel. Shop now…

Toiletries

Toiletries will be available in some shops and at the airport, but they could be much more expensive than at home, so try not to forget anything. The main things you will need are:

• Toothpaste and brushes
• Shampoo
• Soap or shower gel
• Deodorant
• Medications
• Antihistamines
• Makeup
• Face wipes
• Hairbrush and bands

Try to think of anything you use day to day to help you make your own list.

Guam is a true tropical paradise and a great place to visit on a budget, so you will be sure to have a wonderful time. Just make sure you don’t forget anything!

Asan Beach Park

Asan Beach was one of the two primary beaches which U.S. soldiers stormed when trying to recapture Guam from Japanese occupation during World War II. There are a number of World War II memorials, relics, and informational signs scattered around the park for visitors to enjoy. The beach area of Asan Beach Park is lined with coconut trees to provide shade from the tropical sun. In addition to the beach, there is a huge triangular park which can be used by the public for just about any activity.

Tanguisson

Covered picnic tables and BBQ pits are part of the park amenities at Tanguisson Beach. Entrance to the municipal power plant property is near the Two Lovers Point attraction. Uncultivated beach and rugged margin open up to a park setting with large shade trees and manicured grass for games and gatherings.

Sharks Cove

Guam’s exclusive beaches are off the beaten path. Sharks Cove Beach is worth every minute of the half-mile hike to get there. Protective beach shoes are a necessity and snorkel equipment is recommended.

Gun Beach

The namesake gun of Gun Beach is located in the far right end of the small lagoon created in part by a massive cliff on the north end. On the left of the old gun is an entrance to another secluded cove called Fai Fai Beach. Gun Beach features good snorkeling, when safe conditions prevail, and a dive site with steep reef sides and a cable trench leading into deep water.

Inarajan Pools

For rugged beauty and photo appeal, Inarajan Pools has the most intriguing geology. Natural bathing spots surround a public park on the main road that circumnavigates the island. Coral outcroppings resembling the lava flows of volcanic islands loom at 15 to 20 feet above the horizon, blocking the view of the reef beyond.

Tagachang

Set between jungle topped cliffs, Tagachang beach is one of Guam’s many beautiful beaches but unlike some, this one is remote and ungroomed. Unlike Tumon Bay beaches, Tagachang is quiet , but best enjoyed during daylight hours for safety. Like many of the eastern beaches, an outer reef breaks the surf and makes the beach calm and safe for swimming.

Talofofo Beach

This rock beach lies adjacent to the Talofofo River bridge. The low-lying outlet is lined with a protective rock levy reminiscent of San Francisco Bay.

Ipan Beach

This southern beach is popular with locals and right next to Jeff’s Pirate’s Cove. Kite surfers are often seen from this rugged spot.

Ritidian

The northernmost perimeter reef of Guam is accessible without security clearance from Ritidian Beach. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Preserve is located near the recreation area. Strict obedience to posted warnings about the rip currents and conditions will insure a safe and enjoyable visit to one of the most pristine beaches on Guam.

What’s your favorite beach on Guam?

Guam is unique and complex. It looks like one thing on the surface, but it’s entirely another animal underneath. Save time, money, and embarrassment on your trip (or move) to Guam with these tips! You can thank us later.

Chamorron is not a word

Newbies mistake the name of Guam’s indigenous people with the insulting misnomer ‘Chamorron.’ The correct designation, Chamorro, describes the people, language, food, and culture. Chamorros consider themselves Americans and have all the rights of U.S. citizenship. Respect them by not inserting “moron” into any part of their moniker.

The rest of Guam looks nothing like Tumon

Let’s face it, Tumon would fit right in at Disney’s Epcot Center as Americaland. That’s all well and good, but there is more to Guam than luxury shopping and hamburgers. The few square miles of Guam’s tourist center are perfect for lodging, shopping, dining, entertainment, and beaches, however, to experience the island’s historical sites, rugged beaches, and rolling hills, venture outside of Tumon. Read our guide to a Lazy Southern Drive or Go North!

You will have Shark’s Cove to yourself

In fact, there are many exotic beaches that are often void of any people, especially the secluded ones! Most visitors head straight to Tumon Bay simply because it’s close, convenient, and easily accessible. Follow our directions and maps to explore the island’s most rugged, dramatic, and secluded beaches from Ritidian to Talofofo Bay.

Hire a car, bus, or taxi to get around

There’s no public transportation system to speak of, so budget time and money to hire a car, bus, or taxi. Guam may look compact on a map, but you can’t get very far on foot due to the heat, distance, and lack of signage or sidewalks outside of Tumon.

View the Red Trolley route from to/from Micronesia Mall and major hotels. Most visitors use the trolley or taxi, which is more expensive. View an interactive map of trolley stops. Read more about transportation on Guam.

There’s no such thing as a fast lane

Research shows (and Guam proves) that life near the equator just moves slower than elsewhere. There are no freeways and no fast lanes on Guam, but who needs one when you’re on vacation? Residents are notorious for running red lights and pausing at green ones. Take a chill pill and just go with the (slow) flow when you get behind the wheel.  Remember that you probably came to Guam to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life anyway.

Learn more about Guam in this movie

There are two temperatures on Guam: hot and hotter

Or should we say, humid and humider. Guam’s temperature ranges between 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit with a humidity level of 60-80% throughout the year. Its dry season runs between January and June, while the rainy season is between July and December. The months of January through March are generally the coolest with June through August being the hottest. Come prepared with lightweight clothing, a hat, water bottle, umbrella, sunglasses, and good walking shoes. Find out more about What to Wear on Guam.

Be typhoon ready

Guam has no storm sirens, so evaluate weather conditions before you go out on the water. Fortunately, typhoons approach with some warning, however, earthquakes do not. Tsunamis are possible even if a quake strikes hundreds of miles away. June to September is storm season, so check the national news for weather updates. Tsunami evacuation routes are indicated with blue signage on major roads. Read our Guide to Typhoon Readiness for more information.

Sundays are dead

Perhaps because Guam is predominantly Catholic, businesses close early, open late, or not at all. Check restaurant listings before you go to see what’s open on Sundays. Some restaurants may be open for dinner only. Hotel buffets are always an option if you don’t mind spending $30+ per person for Sunday brunch, which is usually quite elaborate, varied, and good.

Guam geckos are harmless

Can you believe we were afraid of these little guys when we moved here five years ago? The Guam gecko is quite cute and completely harmless and that’s why he is part of our logo. They don’t crawl on people because like most things that are .000001% the size of humans, they are terrified and scurry away. You may also encounter banana spiders, which look menacing but are also non-poisonous and non-confrontational.

You won’t see a brown tree snake

Despite news stories to the contrary, the brown tree snake doesn’t harass the people of Guam. In fact, the snakes are reclusive jungle-dwellers, content to stay away from humans wielding traps, machetes, or cars. You would only be likely to see a snake during a boonie stomp or at UnderWater World in a glass cage.

Contraceptives are contraband

Buying birth control on Guam is a little like smuggling arms into the Gaza Strip. The only place to buy toiletries en masse is the hyperbolized “largest Kmart in the world,” which translates the only Kmart still in business. The pure frustration of the BC-buying event has forced the family planners among us to perform the task like a choreographed CIA mission. Contraceptives are located in a formidable glass case adjacent to the pharmacy window. To heighten the embarrassment of buying the stuff, it’s necessary to press a large red button to get the attention of whichever staffer carries the key to said case. (The first time we saw the red button, we couldn’t discern if it was more like the Batphone or the “Big Red Button” of the Cold War). You’d think once you get the stuff, you could tuck it under some cereal box you picked up just to conceal unmentionables in your cart. Wrong. Customers aren’t even allowed to touch a box of condoms. Once it’s selected, the dutiful Kmart employee takes it to a ‘courtesy desk’ for you while you wait in line. In a short 30 minutes, you arrive at the cash register wishing you had never been born.

You can, however, buy higher-priced, off-brand contraceptives with ease at gas stations and mom ‘n pop shops, though not many carry them.

Tax and gratuity are usually included

Gross Revenue Tax (GRT) of 4% is added to everything and often 10% gratuity is added at restaurants, no matter how big your dining party. Check your bill or ask your server if you’re not sure. It’s perfectly fine to leave an additional 5-10% for great service. Hotel Occupancy Tax is 11% and is tacked on automatically.

(Most) all the beaches are free

With the exception of a few resorts such as Coco Palm Beach Resort, all the island’s beaches and respective parks are free. Take that, Caribbean islands! Some beaches are inaccessible because they are on private property, so if you see a ‘No Trespassing’ sign, stay out.

Take to the hills

Don’t visit Guam without venturing to Guam’s sparsely-populated southern hills. It’s easy enough to rent a car and drive south, stopping along the way at ocean overlooks, historical sites, cultural spots, and untamed beaches. After all, Guam is only 32 miles long. If you’re a history buff, you will enjoy stopping at all the WWII sites, some of which even have audio tours. Read our guide to a Lazy Southern Drive.

Go ahead. Relax.

“Hafa Adai” is to Guam what “Soon come” is to Jamaica. It’s a Chamorro greeting, to be accurate, but it can also be translated “half-a-day is all you’ll have left after you wait in line.” This is not because lines are particularly long (except at Christmas or at Ross), but because people move slower. This is an island. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Near the equator. Life is slow. Take a deep breath, it won’t kill you to wait an extra 15 minutes.

I spent the morning of August 9, 2017, like most people here, and probably quite a good number elsewhere in the world: talking about the North Korean threat to our island of Guam. I woke that morning to a barrage of messages on Facebook and WhatsApp. In a couple cases, the senders didn’t send much in the way of words, but simply a photo of their televisions set to CNN where the word “Guam” appeared prominently in the chyron. Sometimes, anxious or frightened emojis would be the accompanying message.

In the days since, the initial shock has gone, but the anxiety persists. In Guam, we are accustomed to aggressive, vainglorious rhetoric, detached from reality, coming from certain lands to the northwest of us. Over the past few years, Guam has been mentioned in the saber-rattling of both North Korea and China. Last year China named a missile after Guam, dubbing it a “Guamkiller.” Recently, Russian military pilots even buzzed by their US counterparts near Guam. But this time it is different, primarily because the president of the United States is so different.

When confronted with the typically hyperbolic rhetoric from North Korea, US President Donald Trump decided to respond not with measured firmness or maturity, but rather as if he saw it as a cock-fighting challenge. Trump matched the rhetoric with some of his own, promising “fire and fury like the world has never seen.” This is what made the recent threats so much more frightening.

In the past, the recklessness and the aggression seemed to emanate only from one side of our island home in the western Pacific. But now, it comes at us from both sides.

Talking to my kids Sumåhi (10) and Akli’e’ (8) about this threat turned out to be difficult on many levels. Part of the reason was the fact that I only speak to my children in the Chamorro language, which is the native tongue of the indigenous people of Guam and the other Marianas Islands. As such, translations of “nuclear miniaturization” or “missile deterrence” were very tough to come up with on the fly. But what made it even more difficult was that the usual way my children see the world, as if it followed the same structures as Hollywood movies, wasn’t as tenable in this context. To my son, for example, the world breaks down into those who are good and those who are bad. Good guys should be cheered on; bad guys should be booed.

The changes in American presidential rhetoric made it difficult, because now, not only did Trump and Kim Jong-un seem to be speaking the same aggressive language, but, when I tried to explain the situation in Chamorro, there would be a great deal of overlap in the terms I would use to describe them. This often left the kids puzzled when I was trying to clarify the difference between the two leaders.

Akli’e’ in particular was confused as to why one country might be better than another if both their leaders are, as I put it, “atmariao,” meaning crazy or insane. In order to make my point, I ended up trying to explain the differences in the governments involved. Although both leaders may act in petulant, impulsive and selfish ways, I explained that one government is totally controlled by their leader (“mantaidirecho i taotao put håyi i ma’gas”), but, in another, people still have certain democratic power to choose their leaders (“manggaidirecho didide’ put håyi i ma’gas i gubetnamento”).

Then it was my daughter Sumåhi’s turn to be confused. She wanted to know why, if North Korea was a long-standing enemy of the US, the people of the United States would choose a leader who was so similar to someone they considered so bad?

Thankfully, before I had to try to explain about the Electoral College or the US electoral calamity in general, Akli’e’ intervened to ask another question. He was confident now that we had established that one side of the conflict was a democracy (better), while the other was a dictatorship (worse). Now that Akli’e’ had an idea of who was bad, he started to lambast North Korea for their terrible deeds, since he naturally assumed they must be out bombing everyone left and right.

This led to even more confusion as I tried to explain, in the simplest terms possible, the history of US intervention into foreign countries (and also its colonization of places like Guam, including a bombing campaign in the Marianas during World War Two that was unprecedented in its destructiveness). This then led to Akli’e’ again being confused as to why we would want US bombs here on Guam when the US has such a long history of bombing other countries, including sending the atomic bombs to Hiroshima and Nagasaki from our nearby Chamorro island of Tinian.

It is at this point that I warmed up the Xbox to distract my kids, while I slipped out of the room, temporarily safe from their innocent, merciless logic.

I tell this story of my children trying to understand international relations because it touches on a number of truths, some of which are easier for us adults to address than others as well.

Sometimes, a child struggling with the way of the world, incessantly asking “why?” isn’t so much about a child’s incomprehension but the world’s incomprehensibility.

The child is encountering something which is clearly incongruent, crooked, or broken, which all around them have come to agreed is clear, straight, and not broken at all. The eyes of a child can be helpful in the ways they can guide us to see things that we have learned not to notice or to deny outright.

When trying to understanding the feelings of those of us in Guam in response to the North Korea threat, it is difficult to do so without first understanding Guam’s history and current political status in the world. The confusion that I experienced discussing the risks and threats around our island with my children is mirrored at multiple levels, and knowing more about this can help you understand the anxiety and ambivalence that people on Guam are currently feeling.

Learn more about Chamorro history and culture in the Guam film, “American Soil, Chamorro Soul.” Watch now.

For example, if we look at Guam, there might seem little to worry anyone on the surface. Although Trump has shifted global political rhetoric into new and potentially dangerous directions, it is obvious to anyone with a map or access to Wikipedia that the tweet of the day from the President, doesn’t change the fact that Guam is the home to about six thousand US military troops, plus bombers, fighters, nuclear submarines, and also the infamous THAAD. Many assume Guam will surely be fine, the people there well defended and taken care of, because of that significant US military presence.

But, even in the very media coverage that purports to introduce Guam to the rest of the world, we see that this military presence is also a problem. If you reduce Guam to its military value or use, or even if you simply reduce it to a territory of the United States, you are exposing, most likely unintentionally, the very things that make people in Guam so anxious and uncertain.

Guam is an unincorporated US territory, which means it is not a state, nor a foreign country, but rather a possession, owned by the United States. The American flag that flies over Guam has the usual fifty stars, one for each state. But what on the flag represents Guam and other US territories? When one waves a flag high in a patriotic display, is Guam represented by that flag?

When Donald Trump proclaims that he will “make America great again,” is Guam included?

When the United States draws up plans or lays out policies to defend itself and engage with potential threats such as North Korea, the same questions persist. Do those plans include Guam? And, if they do, how is Guam included? Is it included as a part of the US or rather as a strategically important asset that can be used to club America’s enemies into submission?

This is why the uncertainty about Guam’s situation isn’t just about what Kim Jong-un will do or what Trump might do. Even without the North Korean threat, Guam’s status remains undefined, unjust, and, frankly, colonial.

As we have been placed in the crosshairs of yet another enemy of the US, it is imperative that we use this moment to truly take stock of our place in the world and, therefore, of our status as “The Tip of America’s Spear.” When I think of the future that awaits my children, I hope that Guam could one day cease to be the tip of a spear used by one nation to threaten another, and instead become a bridge, which could connect countries across continents and oceans in peace.

Pås para i isla. Minaguem para i tano’-ta. (Peace for the island. Peace for our land.)

Dr. Michael Lujan Bevacqua, PhD is passionate about reviving the Chamorro language on Guam and changing the political status of his homeland of Guam. He is the Assistant Professor of Chamorro Studies at the University of Guam and a member of the Guam Commission on Decolonization. Michael is a father, filmmaker, and Manga comic lover.

The locals have a saying, “only on Guam” (O.O.G.), to describe certain behaviors, traditions or strange phenomena, events that seem to occur, either as mysterious, frequent, or unique to the island. This article will include strange things locals do, what they have encountered, and what the world is saying about a supposedly tranquil, idyllic island that may even surprise long-time residents. Test your expertise about Guam and see if you can determine fact from fiction.

Ajira Airways flight 316 experienced a time-warp on the way to Guam (True or False)

The exact coordinates of flight 316 were as follows:

On this flight, headed to Guam were the members of a scientific research group called DHARMA. A mid-air disturbance occurred changing their course not only to a different island, but to a different space and time. This group’s general goal was to manipulate scientific laws in order to change any of the six factors of the Valenzetti Equation, a sequence that was believed to have some connection to the date marking the end of humanity, in hopes of delaying such a date. DHARMA has a stocking warehouse in Guam’s Orote Peninsula and this website.

Did the website convince you? Scroll down for the answer.

FALSE

FACT: A time warp is not a fictitious idea, but a hypothetical change or distortion occurring in the flow of time that would move events from one time period to another. However, the story above is science fiction. The information was taken from a website created by fans of the TV show “Lost.” Orote Peninsula is located in Guam’s Naval Base.

FICTION: The popular sci-fi TV show had a time-warp mythology arc, and the pilot episode mentioned Guam as the final destination of the fictional airliner Ajira Airways. The fictional Hydra Island is where the time warps took place. Guam is mentioned on another episode that shows, in white subtitles (picture above), the location of the DHARMA Logistics Warehouse in the Orote Peninsula.

In 1997, a member of the Guam National Track and Field Team headed for the South Pacific Games in American Samoa. She discovered having traveled “back in time” during the first day of her trip (True or False)

Traveling back in time is a concept in quantum mechanics describing the phenomenon of when a person moves back, in different points in time, the way a physical object moves in different points in space. Time travel is the process that occurs in a time warp. Travelers leaving Guam have often experienced losing hours-worth of time when flying towards the region of the south-western Pacific. Some who have left Guam on a Monday find themselves waking up on board a plane, landing in American Samoa on a Sunday — having to relive the day all over again.

TRUE

(Left of Dateline) Monday/ Sunday (Right of Dateline)

FACT: The tagline, “Guam is where America’s Day begins,” says it all. We’re a day ahead on the west side of the International Dateline and a day behind on the east where American Samoa is situated. So every single human being who has traveled crossing the International Dateline to the east side of the Pacific Ocean has technically traveled back in time. In school we were taught about the International Dateline, an imaginary line that runs through the middle of the Pacific Ocean on the 180° line of longitude, separating two sides and creating two consecutive calendar days. So when a person travels east across the International Dateline, a day (24 hours) is being subtracted. And when a person travels west across the International Dateline, a day (24 hours) will be added. What is stranger is that the dateline is not a perfectly straight line. It has been redrawn over the years at the request of certain countries.

Local residents prefer giving directions by using landmarks instead of proper names of streets (True or False)

Ask an islander for directions and you will have no need for Google Earth, Mapquest, or your smartphone app because the route you will be given will feel like riddles to a treasure hunt. The locals often find that using landmarks and other non-descript areas is the most efficient way to finding streets or places.

A local’s directions to Talofofo Bay: Coming from Barrigada, turn left at the Chalan Pago intersection in front of former Judge Manibusan’s house (on top of a ledge). Keep driving. You know you’re in the village of Yona when you pass by Bordallo’s Mansion at the top of the hill and after a half a mile away, the giant Carabao statue will be on the right. You’ll go down a curving hill that takes you through the Ilig Bridge currently undergoing construction. Keep going straight as you pass the Cross-Island Road to the left. On the right, is a cemetery by the beach. Keep going straight and Jeff’s Pirate’s Cove should be on your right. Follow that road until you go up a hill. Stop at the stop sign, and there should be an uphill road turning right. Don’t take that! Proceed to the road going downhill, on the left. As you drive downhill, you will see Talofofo Bay on your left.

TRUE

FACT: Not relying on street signs was, in part, put into practice when countless typhoons during the ’80s and ’90s ravaged the island one after another, causing street signs to either disappear (by being blown away), receive damages beyond repair, and for most, left unreadable after the pelting wind and rain peeled off the paint. Other than that, signs are not as picturesque as landmarks, and what better way to get people to appreciate the interesting details locals notice about their island while sending you to your destination?

Talofofo Bay is one of only four green sand beaches in the world (True or False)

The volcanic sand is formed by iron-rich rock particles, which gives the sand its black, reddish-rust weathered appearance. What gives the sand in Talofofo Bay its distinctive green color is from the mineral called Olivine. The mineral is one of Earth’s most abundant minerals by volume, but when it is found of gem quality it is known as Peridot. This gem is popularly known as the birthstone for the month of August.

TRUE

FACT: The other three green sand beaches are: Papakolea Beach in the island of Hawaii, Punta Cormorant on Floreana Island in the Galapagos Islands, and Hornindalysvatnet, Norway. The Talofofo beach sand received high concentrations of this mineral from deposits of eroding volcanic terrain in the southern part of the island. The intensity and tint of the green is determined by how much iron is contained in the crystal structure.

Earthquakes happen every day on Guam (True or False)

The 12th story apartment and hotel, Royal Palm Resort, was in operation for only one month when an 8.1 Earthquake struck Guam. Accustomed to earthquakes, the majority of local residents, with patience and calm, wait for the slight tremor of the Earth to pass then proceed on with their daily routine. Their nonchalant attitude towards earthquakes would forever change after one Sunday evening in August of 1992 when a 8.1 temblor rocked the island for two terrifying minutes. With strict building codes already in place, most structures received only minor damages and no one was seriously injured. However, one building could not withstand the impact as the second floor collapsed during the earthquake, and consequently the majestic structure had to be demolished. Today, only Royal Palm Resort’s parking garage remains in the middle of a bustling Tumon across the street from the San Vitores church.

TRUE

FACT: Guam is in a very unique location on a long belt of volcanic activity known as the Ring of Fire. These fissures in the ocean floor are hot spots that cause earthquakes as it runs around a perimeter spanning the entire Pacific Ocean. When Earth’s plates collide, they form mountains. The Mariana Archipelago is essentially underwater mountaintop islands formed 100-plus million years ago, and only have active volcanoes located on the northern chain. Our tiny island is perched at the edge of the Philippine plate which continues to move rising over the Pacific plate. The Pacific plate continues to sink underneath the Philippine plate, causing the Marianas Trench to grow deeper. This movement, however, moves at the rate of 1 to 10 centimeters per year. The distance and depth of the trench despite our close proximity to a highly unstable area along Earth’s plates, fortunately, mollifies the intensity of daily earthquakes. We normally do not feel these tremors unless there is larger volcanic and plate tectonic activity.

Cars on neutral at the bottom of Guam’s Gravity Hill reverse in an uphill motion due to magnetic forces (True or False)

The deep southern roads of Guam wind and gently roll up and down the mountainous terrain. Somewhere in Umatac, a road has been traversed on then is strangely reversed on to test whether the car will roll back up the top of the hill. Some say it happens because the world’s tallest mountain (below sea level) is just around the corner, changing the area’s gravitational pull. Another theory is that there may be some secret military underground silo buried under a mountain, hiding top-secret gravity-altering technology or it may simply happen from the strong winds brushing against the grass-covered slopes onto the road.

FALSE

FACT: The slope of gravity hills are optical illusions. The rolling hills and the surrounding layout of the landscape produces the illusion that the surface may appear to be an uphill slope but is actually a slight downhill slope. Many hills much like this exist around the world and are turned into tourist attractions. They may be also known as magnetic hill, gravity road, mystery spot, or mystery hill.

As for Guam’s gravity hill, the phenomenon has rarely worked as expected since the road was reconstructed. But in certain weather conditions, such as a windy and rainy day, it has been known to work.

Men wear giant clamshells as jewelry (True or False)

A piece of “hima” known in English as the Giant Clam (Tridacna gigas), is carefully carved out, polished into a glassy luster and made into a necklace lined with disks of the spondylus shells. The body ornament is called sinahi, which means “new moon.” The name is given by its carved crescent-shape curve. This token from the sea is also a reflection of the ancient people’s expert sea-faring skills, relying on celestial navigation to guide them along the vast ocean highways. The revival of this body ornament was first re-introduced in modern times by influential Chamorro men like Ben “Sinahi” Del Rosario, a pioneer in carving one-of-a-kind shell jewelry pieces, and the late Angel Santos, Chamorro civil-rights activist-turned senator.

TRUE

FACT: These pieces adorned only the ancient Chamorro chiefs, called Maga’lahi, according to historical accounts. It has now become a coveted jewelry item sold in cultural fairs around the Pacific region and on several websites. The high value of these pieces recognizes the arduous task of retrieving giant clams and spondylus shells legally, and often at great ocean depths, and for a growing appreciation of refining a craftsmanship focused on recreating ancient replicas into exquisite, wearable works of art.

It’s raining, it’s Pouring on a sunny day. This phenomenon only happens on Guam during the birth of an animal or an unusual wedding (True or False)

In Guam, hard rain can pelt down on your windshield with just a few cumulus clouds and a bright hot sun out in the sky. A “sun shower” is what this meteorological phenomenon is called. It is not an official weather term, but the name has been used around the world associated with folklore. The theme shared in most stories is that during this phenomenon, an animal has given birth, is getting married or an unusual wedding between monkeys are taking place. Since sun showers happens almost every day on Guam then could this account for our large stray animal population?

FALSE

FACT: The scientific explanation is that it is more nature’s version of another optical illusion than nature’s way of announcing an even stranger event. Cumulus clouds are white, round and fluffy clouds that brings on fair weather, but in this case, a cumulus cloud is built up vertically. The tall cloud may be completely bypassed by the sun’s rays as it beams down at a certain angle. But the vertical cumulus cloud appears to be a smaller version of a cumulonimbus cloud, a towering dense cloud that brings on heavy rain. The combination of height and dense build-up causes rain to be dumped in an abrupt manner.

FICTION: Many older local residents, such as in the Filipino community, have their folktale versions of what sun showers are: a witch being born or getting married. Other places like Hawaii name the sun shower Ghost Rain. In Japan, a fox’s wedding ceremony is being held, while in Korea a male tiger is marrying a fox. In Tanzania a lioness has given birth, and the list goes on in many more other countries, especially India. Long ago, strange weather phenomena seemed fantastical, few and far between. We know now that extreme weather is an effect of climate change, not a joyous ceremony in the animal kingdom.

Guam has phantom hermit crabs that disappear into thin air (True or False)

Locals fondly recall childhood experiences of having had the brief pleasure of making these notoriously elusive creatures, the hermit crab, their pets. A lone purple pincher hermit crab would wander into yards, and besides the African snail shell on their backs, bring with them an air of mystery. From where did they come? But more importantly, Where did they go?

When a hermit crab was captured (before there were handy pet store containers with latches) the sizable crab was usually placed in a tall five-gallon paint bucket or the convenient deep laundry sinks in the garage. Before leaving it for the night, these novice pet crab-owners covered the container, usually with multipurpose plywood then weighed it down further by a hollow block (or two) to keep the one crab from escaping. The next morning, with everything still in place and still intact, upon removing the plywood lid, they discovered that the crab that supposedly spent the night in a secured container had simply vanished.

FALSE

FACT: These intelligent creatures have the capacity to devise a plan and engineer an escape, usually through the use of their strong claws and legs. If there were any objects inside the container it would be used as a stepping stool first, then afterwards, they would outstretch their limbs to reach another point where they could latch on with their legs, which have tiny talon-like ends. Those same sharp ends can find tiny grooves on a seemingly smooth structure to climb on, or the crab can gravitate to a corner to use the angle as leverage on the way up. Once they reach the closed top, they can wedge the sharp end of their leg underneath the lid then use their (house-carrying, coconut-husking) immense strength to lift it enough to escape back to freedom.

The brown tree snakes have caused more than 1,000 power outages on Guam (True or False)

The brown tree snakes were responsible for causing over 1,200 power outages dating back to 1978, according to research reported from Columbia University. It is hard to believe that the entire island can be plunged into utter darkness by one slithery and slender interloper. The snakes’ attempts to cross electrical lines for shelter on high and dry ground in rainy weather produced massive damage with power surges and ended fatally for the snake. This created economic havoc when the need arose to replace expensive power station equipment and when many households experienced widespread electrical fuse blow-outs on home appliances. This prompted the purchase of surge protectors to better prepare for a period of load-shedding blues, scheduled isolated power outages for years to come.

TRUE

FACT: The brown tree snake has never eaten a baby as the tabloid media previously reported, nor are the sensationalized reports true about the streets of Guam covered with millions of these cold-blooded creatures. There are occasions when these mildly venomous snakes have bitten babies, mostly on their arms, requiring treatment for skin inflammation.

Recent data has shown a decline in snake population when compared to data taken in the ’80s. Since the snakes had no real predators and competition with other organisms, they were able to wipe out several bird and lizard populations resulting in the decrease of their food supply, leaving only each other to compete against. The government continues to take active measures to control the population and to secure locations at high risk where snakes may adversely affect the environment and economy.

Recently the media has been buzzing again about the snake-overtaking-Guam story. Many reports make mention of “dead mice” and “dropping poison pills,” but scientific journals clarify that this aggressive method of eradication will be dropping a total of 30,000 live mice carrying acetaminophen onto a secure federal property with dense snake population. Data is currently being collected to determine whether results will prove successful or not.

Did you answer all the questions correctly?

Are there things you still find hard to believe? The island is as mysterious as it is exotic, but one who is the curious type, bent on digging deep down, all the way to the root of things, may find that the answers are explained by the simple and wonderfully logical world of science. But with all this strangeness going on, it’s quite entertaining to be on an island filled with intrigue in the middle of nowhere.

“Eat local” is far more than a marketing message, it can be a way of life. Yes, even on a Guam! We’ve partnered with Farm to Table Guam as well as our local columnists to show you how to buy and eat local, from honey to lettuce. Read our comparison of local versus imported food by nutritional value, written by local biology teacher Arlene Castro.

Browse past articles for all foods local and fresh on Guam!

Where to Buy Local Produce

Read The Fresh Factor Weekly Calendar.

Visit Farm to Table Guam’s member page and website.

Guam Recipes

Calamansi Poppy Seed Vinaigrette

Island Citrus Long Beans

Boonie Thai Papaya Salad

Crab Cilantro Papaya, Mango, Avocado Star Fruit Salad

Fried Banana Lumpia (Turon)

Mango Cream Oreo Cheesecake

More Chamorro recipes!

Best Food on Guam

5 Foods You Must Eat on Guam

The Best Bakeries on Guam

Best Cheap Eats on Guam

If you’re like me, you have definite travel moods. Sometimes you want heart-pumping adventure; other times you want to melt into a beach chair and do nothing. The good news is that Guam offers it all. Whether you’re an adrenaline junky or a lazy sunbather, we’ve got a vacation theme for you!

Adrenaline Junkie

You’re the traveler with all the GoPro attachments — underwater, head mount, selfie stick, check! Guam can be experienced at full throttle whether you’re a small or big budget traveler. There are now two types of skydiving — traditional and simulated. Check out Skydive Guam to actually jump out of a plane or Skydrenaline Zone to just feel like you have. If you don’t mind feeling your stomach in your throat, go for a Slingshot ride in Tumon. For a milder adrenaline fix, Zipline Guam offers unique views of Tumon Bay. If water is your pleasure, book a parasailing excursion. If jumping off of stuff is your forte, check out our top spots to take the plunge or read our 12 Activities for Adventure Lovers on Guam.

Lazy Sunbather

You’ve just traveled for 12 to 24 hours and you’ve never felt so happy to sink your toes into the sand. Before you hit the bed, you hit the beach… and you stay there all day. In fact, Guam is so safe and tourist-friendly, you can enjoy Tumon Bay even at night! If you can pry yourself out of the beach lounger, you’ll want to check out some of the dinner and dance shows at all the major hotels along the Bay. To get off the beaten path and see Guam’s rugged coastline, rent a car, hop in a taxi, or book a bus tour to see Guam’s sleepy southern beaches where you can be just as lazy, but escape the tourist-beaten path of Tumon. We recommend Ipan, Talofofo, and Inarajan beaches. Check out the 8 Most Breathtaking Beaches on Guam.

Family Guy (or Gal)

Guam is safe, relaxed, and very family friendly. If your kids love the water, you’re in luck. Swimming and snorkeling are favorite family activities, as are waterparks and hiking. Check out Tagada Amusement Park in Tumon for rides or UnderWater World to see the ocean without getting wet. For older kids and teenagers, explore Guam’s rugged terrain with Jungle Rules Adventure Tours, where mom or dad can drive an ATV (and hopefully, not drive their kids crazy) with the help of a guide. Read the rest of our Top 10 Spots for Family Fun on Guam or Family Friendly Hikes on Guam.

Shopaholic

You came with a credit card and you know how to use it. Budget shopping or luxury brands — Guam has it all. Head to Chamorro Village on Wednesday nights to shop unique handmade jewelry, souvenirs, and art. Or hit up any of the major shopping centers in Tumon for U.S. and European luxury brand apparel, shoes, and accessories. Start with the largest — The Plaza Shopping Center then work your way through JP Superstore, T Galleria, and Tumon Sands Plaza. For more affordable brands, you can explore each of Guam’s malls within a couple of days — Agana Shopping Center, Micronesia Mall, and Guam Premier Outlets. Each of the malls has a food court and movie theatre if you literally shop til you drop.

Culture Vulture

Guam has layers of history to peal back (Chamorro, Spanish, Japanese, American) all contributing to a dynamic modern-day culture. Step outside of Tumon’s tourist strip to experience historical villages like Umatac, Merizo, and Inarajan. You may even be invited to a village fiesta or BBQ! To see authentic Chamorro dance, visit Sheraton Laguna Resort & Spa to see a performance by Pa’a Taotao Tano. Read our feature, Understanding Chamorro & Micronesian Culture on Guam as well as 10 Ways to Experience Culture on Guam.

Foodie

There are five foods you must try on Guam and a whole lot more that you will enjoy. Start with kelaguen, a signature local dish. A combination of lemon juice, onions, local hot peppers, salt and sometimes grated coconut are used to “kelaguen” either seafood, beef, chicken or even Spam. Kadon Pika is another local favorite. The Chamorro word “kadon,” when translated, means stew and the word “pika” means spicy. Ingredients include soy sauce, vinegar, salt and black pepper, onions, garlic, local hot peppers and last, but most certainly not least, coconut milk. Discover the other must-try foods on Guam!

Guam is home to many Asian fusion restaurants as well. See photos of our favorite fusion dishes, best bakeries, burgers, and pizza!

Sports Enthusiast

Guam hosts several signature sports events annually, such as XTERRA, Guam International Marathon, Ko’Ko Half Marathon and Relay, and Cocos Crossing. Thousands of international visitors stream in to compete. Hiking on Guam is known as Boonie Stomping and guides take locals and visitors to rugged beaches, rolling hills, and hidden waterfalls weekly for just $2.  Want to be a spectator? Guam International Raceway is the home of drag racing, drifting, autocross, car shows, and super moto events.

Breathtaking views of magnificent Tumon Bay, a World Luxury nominated spa offering guest rooms and suites that span as high as 30 floors while boasting everything from ocean views and private terraces to studios furnished with living rooms, there is no compromise in luxury at the Dusit Thani Guam Resort.

Exclusive villas include six styles of suites each one featuring a living room, pantry, an en-suite bathroom with premium amenities and a luxurious spa treatment room. Enjoy private terraces and a plunge pool to soak in the spectacular beauty of Tumon Bay. Guests are also entitled to the full range of Dusit Club privileges. In addition to lavish rooms, guests can indulge in an array of culinary delights and refreshments in every outlet.

Aqua offers the freshest and finest of ingredients that are woven into an exciting buffet tapestry of local and international fare with live-cooking stations, seafood, cured meats and cheeses, handmade dim sum and one of the largest dessert selection on the island.

Now open for dinner only is Alfredo’s Steakhouse, premium steaks, live lobster and wine list to intrigue any connoisseur.

Savor the flavors of world-renowned Thai street food at Soi which means “street” in Thai. Expanding its hours to accommodate guests for lunch and dinner, the focus at Soi is on small plates that are perfect for sharing and pairing. Elements of trendy Bangkok shop houses are infused throughout this casual yet polished Thai bistro.

Tasi Grill is where tropical gardens and white sands surround this open-air beachside grill. Guests can enjoy the art and style of traditional local barbecue.

Cravings for late night fare and live entertainment can be met at the Lobby Lounge featuring artfully crafted cocktails and spectacular sunsets inside or from the spacious outdoor terrace.

Nestled in the lower lobby, this casual café serves freshly baked breads and pastries, crisp salads, deli-style sandwiches, refreshing smoothies, and trendy coffee and tea creations.

Dusit Thani Guam Resort is also home to Devarana Spa, Dusit International’s signature spa. Inspired by the concept of the garden in heaven, Devarana Spa provides luxurious pampering and healing treatments in a soothing and stress-relieving environment.

The new facility offers ten deluxe treatment rooms and suites plus a couples’ suite, hydro-jet massage pool, hot/cold plunge pools and a Himalayan rock salt meditation room.

Dusit Thani Guam Resort and Guam Convention Center make for a perfect venue for any number of social functions or meetings. No matter what the occasion or size of the event, well-designed facilities combined with unparalleled service offer an unforgettable experience infused with Dusit’s signature Thai hospitality and style.

Experience a world of luxury and hospitality at Dusit Thani Guam Resort that will enliven the individual spirit, no matter the journey.

Visit our website

Phone number: +1 671 648 8000

Email address: dtgu@dusit.com

Hours of operation: Always Open

See why Dusit Thani is the best 5-star resort on Guam

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It’s expensive

Nearly everything on Guam is imported and that means costs are higher than in the States. It’s not like South America or the Caribbean where the cost of living can be relatively low for a Statesider. The costliest items are gas, food, and utilities. For example, as of September 2014 gas was $4.87 per gallon. Produce is significantly higher, though you can find deals at local produce stands. For example, strawberries are generally $7-8 per pint and asparagus is usually $7.99 per pound. Utilities such as electricity continue to rise seemingly with no ceiling.

Blame the shipping costs on The Jones Act of 1920, which forbids all but U.S. shipping vessels to carry cargo to Guam.

How to save: Prices on Guam’s military bases are, of course, more reasonable. Non-military residents can save money by purchasing items like electronics, pet supplies, and personal items online. See our shipping guide to find out which stores ship to Guam.

It’s vital to learn to eat like a local. Farm to Table Guam has a CSA (community supported agriculture) subscription program that includes a weekly box of all local produce. Anyone can sign-up. Read how a military dependent treated sourcing local produce like a treasure hunt in The Fresh Factor.

Make friends with your neighbors (outside the base) and you will be overflowing with mangos and avocados during their respective seasons. Guam avocados are huge, creamy, and delicious. Mangos can be eaten fresh, in salads, pickled, juiced, or frozen. Same with papayas!

Eating local also means trying the dozens of bakeries on Guam. Read our guide…

It’s far

You will be homesick and it will take at least 24 hours and $1,400 per person to get back to the States. This may seem obvious, but if you’re a new Guam transplant and you feel a little down or out of sorts, consider that it may be homesickness.

How to acclimate: It may be tempting to call home every day, but a better way to combat homesickness is to keep busy and make new friends. Fortunately, Chamorro culture is friendly and open to newcomers. Keep an eye on local events where you will be sure to strike up a conversation with a likeminded resident. Newcomers often get their dive certification on Guam, which will keep you busy exploring Guam’s fascinating waters. Read our 5 Steps to Diving on Guam and Get Your Advanced Open Water Dive Certification on Guam.

Need to get back home? If you haven’t already, start saving your miles to get reduced prices on flights home. United Explorer Visa credit card sometimes offers 55,000 bonus miles to new card members! That leaves only 15,000 miles to purchase for a flight from Guam to the States. As of time of writing, the bonus miles offer is 30,000.

It’s all who you know

Guam is a small-knit community and families stick together too. Locals are more likely to use someone they know for any service they need. Calling in favors and showing preferential treatment to family is not considered nepotism, even in the secular world. In fact, there’s a name for it — the Pare’ system!

How to get connected: It’s okay to ask for favors and drop names! Word of mouth is powerful on a small island, so ask around to find reliable service professionals and businesses. If you’re doing business on Guam, this can be an obstacle… until you start networking yourself. Ask your clients to refer you to potential clients. Ask them to recommend your business to their friends.

It’s slow

Guam is an island. In the Pacific. People just move slower. This can be frustrating if you’re from a fast-paced city in Asia or the Mainland and you’re driving or waiting in line on Guam. On the other hand, isn’t that why you moved to a tropical island in the middle of the ocean?

How to get things done: Simply plan ahead. Leave your house earlier and allow more time to travel and wait in line for services (hello, Ross Dress-for-Less, I’m talking to you!). Read our guide to Understanding Guam Traffic and 15 Things to Know Before You Go to Guam. A patient and kind demeanor goes a long way with customer service personnel. You’re far more likely to get help if you keep calm.

Read our 5 Steps for a Smooth Move to Guam.

Guam may be small in size, but it’s big on water activities, culture, shopping, dining, and breathtaking beaches. Find the best of each village — yes, all 23 — here.

Agana Heights

Agana Heights is the home of Fort Santa Agueda, one of very few remaining Spanish forts on Guam, which was built during the 1700-1800s. The fort is perched on top of Apugan Hill. A popular swimming and hiking spot in Agana Heights is Fonte River.

Agat

Agat is a village located on the southwest coast of Guam. It is regarded as the main commercial center of the island’s south. There are a few notable historical points of interest in Agat including the Agat Beach Unit of the War in the Pacific National Historic Park that include memorials to those who perished during the war as well as areas of the park where visitors can enjoy picnics and barbecues. Mount Alifan is another point of interest where remnants of the firefights between the Americans and Japanese are still evident to this day. Agat is also home to the Taleyfac and Taelayag Spanish Bridges, a couple of the structural remnants from when Guam was ruled by Spain in the 1700s. Agat also has a boat marina, which is a take-off point for sunset cruises and dolphin watching.

Asan

Asan is home to the Asan Beach Unit of the War in the Pacific National Historic Park. It is the site where American forces landed in the battle to liberate Guam from Japan during World War II. One can also visit the Asan Bay Overlook on Nimitz Hill for a panoramic view of Guam’s coastline.

Barrigada

A drive up Mt. Barrigada offers a sweeping view of the hills of Central Guam all the way to the Philippine Sea.  The village features softball and football fields, as well as a paintball course. The Guam International Airport is located in Barrigada and Tamuning.

Chalan Pago-Ordot

Chalan Pago-Ordot borders the scenic Pago Bay where one can stop at a lookout point to view the entire bay and surrounding landscape. The only access the shoreline of the bay itself is through Frank Perez Park. Just a little bit south from Frank Perez Park are bunkers used by the Japanese in World War II as a means of defense in Pago Bay. Also in Chalan Pago-Ordot is a village mural filled with images that reflect the the village’s history and community. Leo Palace, a sprawling resort, is accessible from Ordot.

Dededo

Dededo is home to Micronesia Mall, the largest shopping mall in the Micronesian Islands. It is an immensely popular spot for both locals and tourists with its wide range of shops that offer everything from apparel to toys to groceries at GAP, Macy’s, Toys R’ Us, and Pay-Less Supermarket. It is also a convenient place grab a bite as well with many different eateries throughout the mall and at the food court. Children are surely going to have a fun time there as the mall has an indoor amusement park, Funtastic Park, which has an arcade and various rides including a rollercoaster. Two Lovers Point, a cultural and historical lookout, is also in Dededo. This site affords unparalleled views of Tumon Bay.

Hagåtña

Hagåtña (formerly known as Agana), while the island’s second smallest village, is the capital of Guam. It also home to Chamorro Village, a lively destination for both locals and tourists to buy local wares as well as experience the island’s Chamorro culture and food. If you are up for shopping, a bite to eat, or catching a movie, then Agana Shopping Center is your one stop location for all those things!

Inarajan

Going into Inarajan is like taking a step back in time through Chamorro history. It remains one of the most untouched by change, even being listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1977. To really feel like you have stepped back onto an ancient island, stop by the Gef Pa’go Cultural Village, where you can walk through an ancient Chamorro village, compete with thatch-roofed huts and demonstrations of traditional arts and crafts. Among the most popular sites in Inarajan are the natural ocean side pools, aptly called, Inarajan Pools.

Ipan

Ipan is certainly one of the villages you’ll certainly pass through on your way down south to Guam towards Talofofo and Inarajan. Ipan Beach is a popular spot for kite surfers on Guam, and next to it is Jeff’s Pirate Cove, one of the few traditional-style bar and grill on the southern end of the island. You will also find the Ipan Beach Resort, which is a popular spot for families to spend time at the beach as well as hold barbecues and parties.

Malojloj

Just north of Inarajan, Malojloj is a quaint village. If you find yourself passing through, don’t hesitate to stop by McKraut’s for a bite to eat and a drink. Guam’s only German restaurant is popular amongst locals and military for its wide selection of German beer and delicious bratwursts.

Mangilao

The village is home to Guam’s largest secondary educational center, The University of Guam, located in the heart of Mangilao. Notable features of the UOG Campus are the Planetarium and the UOG Fieldhouse, one of the largest indoor venues on Guam. If you’re an avid golfer then you’ll enjoy The Mangilao Golf Course, which has some of the most picturesque island views.

Merizo

Merizo is Guam’s southernmost village. Swimmers and tourists frequent the Merizo Pier, as do local fisherman with trolling rigs. From this vantage point Cocos Island can be observed in full length from east to west. Guided tours to the resort on Cocos Island depart from the docks at Merizo. Priest’s Pools, a series of natural pools, is hidden in Merizo, but is an easy hike with fantastic views of the ocean.

Mongmong-Toto-Maite

This tiny village trio is more residential than commercial, but you can watch the planes come in from the Mobil/McDonald’s there. Maite has one motel, Palmridge Inn, just across from the island’s only commercial airport.

Piti

The village of Piti is noticeable as you head south on Marine Corps. Drive. There are several attractions in Piti worth stopping at such as the Piti Guns, three coastal defense guns built by the Japanese to use against American forces in World War II. If you wish to explore beneath the waves without ever getting wet, then pay Atlantis Guam a visit and go underwater inside a submarine. One of the most notable sights in Piti is the Fish Eye Visitor Center Underwater Observatory, the only one of its kind in all of Micronesia. If you’re a diver then a trip to the Piti Bomb Holes is a worthy treat.

Santa Rita

During May, Santa Rita is home to a festival that includes feasting and attracts villagers from all over the island.

Sinajana

Sinajana is a hilltop village set between Agana Springs and Agana Heights. If you find yourself in Sinajana, drop by Hotnu, an old Won Pat Store where they still use the old Spanish Stone Oven of the store’s namesake.

Talofofo

This sleepy village is known for its majestic waterfalls, ancient caves (including that of Shoichi Yokoi), and secluded beaches. There is also a souvenir shop and a museum that details the activity in the area during both World Wars. Tourists and locals also enjoy the quiet and serene Onward Talofofo Golf Course.

Tamuning – Tumon

The villages of Tamuning and Tumon are home to the majority of shopping, dining, and entertainment on Guam. Dozens of high-ride hotels line Tumon Bay, a marine preserve. Luxury shopping centers like The Plaza, JP Superstore, and DFS Galleria attract an international crowd. Up for adventure? There’s ziplining at the Hilton, the infamous sling-shot, Tagada Amusement Park, and Onward Waterpark.

Umatac

The small village of Umatac is located in southern Guam along Umatac Bay. The community of Umatac is relatively smaller than others on Guam and made up of a handful of residents, many of whom are relatives. At the center of the bay is an obelisk monument to Ferdinand Magellan’s landing in 1521, bearing the inscription, “Magellan landed here.” The bay is also home to some of the island’s best surfing. Fort Soledad is one of Umatac’s main tourist attractions, originally built by the Spanish, and contains ruins as well as sweeping views Umatac Bay.

Yigo

Yigo is Guam’s northernmost village and home to Andersen Air Force Base. One of the village’s main attractions is the South Pacific Memorial Peace Park, which serves as a memorial to the American and Japanese soldiers who died during the battle of Guam during World War II. Ritidian Beach is a public-access beach and wildlife preserve with white sand and roaring waves.

Yona

The southern part of Guam is what most people imagine an island being like — sparsely populated with beautiful rolling hills and ocean views. The village of Yona is no exception — check out Tagachang Beach for proof. While it is mainly a residential area, the sprawling LeoPalace Resort has plenty of outdoor activities and locals go there to bowl, sing karaoke, and play golf. Golf enthusiasts can enjoy a selection of golf courses in Yona, including Country Club of the Pacific and Windward Hills Golf Course. Hamamoto Tropical Fruit World, a 50-acre fruit utopia with more than 70 varieties of tropical fruit, is also located in this large village.

You don’t have to be a gourmand to know that Guam food is pretty addictive. Search “Chamorro food” on Instagram and you’ll see just how much Chamorros miss home-cooked meals when they move off-island. If you’re craving mom’s eskabeche or dad’s BBQ short ribs, heat up the skillet or fire up the grill and start cooking with these tried and true Chamorro recipes!

Chicken Kelaguen

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Don’t call it “chicken salad,” kelaguen is so much more. This spicy chicken dish is marinated in lemon and served with soft flour titiyas. Variations on this dish are made with uhang (shrimp), guihan (fish) or binådu (deer).

Ingredients:

1 small rotisserie chicken
6 stalks green onions
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon powder plus 3 tablespoons water (or use the juice of 1 large lemon)
2 teaspoons salt (more or less, to taste)
Hot pepper, optional
Freshly grated coconut (unsweetened), optional

Directions:

1.  Debone the chicken; shred or cut into small pieces (I used a food processor to roughly chop the chicken).
2.  Thinly slice the green onions then add it to the chicken.
3.  Add the lemon powder, water, salt and pepper to the bowl of chicken; mix to combine.  Taste; adjust seasoning if required.
4.  Stir in the optional grated coconut.
5.  Serve with my super easy sweet flour titiyas and enjoy!

Eskabeche

By Emilie Johnston, Guam Women’s Club Cookbook

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Fresh fish cooked in vinegar sauce, Chamorro eskabeche is an localized homage to the Spanish escabeche.

Ingredients:

Fish
Cooking oil
Beans (long beans, green beans, etc.)
Kang kong
Eggplant
Cabbage
Carrots
Onions
Green pepper
Turmeric, fresh if possible
Vinegar
Salt

Directions:

1. Clean and cook all vegetables, except green pepper and onions, in boiling water until tender. Reserve at least 2 cups of the cooking water.
2. Fry fish until barely cooked. Drain most of the oil from pan used to fry fish. Saute green pepper and onions in the same pan. Add grated or sliced fresh turmeric. (Powdered turmeric may be used if necessary.) Pour in about 2 cups of the vegetable water and about a cup of vinegar. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil.
3. Arrange cooked fish and vegetables in a large casserole dish or other serving dish. Spoon or pour solution over all. Refrigerated, this will keep for several days.

Finadenne

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Every culture has its own all-purpose special sauce, for Guam it is Finadenne – a simple trifecta of salty, sour, and spicy. Enjoy with everything from BBQ to plain white rice.

Ingredients:

Soy sauce, to taste (you can substitute the soy sauce with salt)
Vinegar, to taste (you can use any type of vinegar, or you can use lemon or lime juice)

Optional ingredients:

Green onions, as much as you like
White onions, diced, as much as you like
Hot chili peppers, as much as you can stand
Cherry tomatoes, diced or sliced

Annie’s special recipe

1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup vinegar
1 jalapeño pepper
2 Serrano chili peppers
4 stalks green onions
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes

1. In a small bowl, mix together the soy sauce and vinegar (or lemon juice if you prefer).
2. Slice the peppers then add them to the bowl with the onions, and tomatoes. Stir to combine.
3. Serve in a side dish or sprinkle over rice.

BBQ Short Ribs

By Rueben Olivas

Guam BBQ is typically made with Korean kalbi style short ribs, over a charcoal grill. Each family keeps its own BBQ recipe a tightly guarded secret. Thankfully, Rueben Olivas has let us in on the basics.

Ingredients:

1 cup of Kikkoman Soy Sauce
1 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar
1/2 to 1 onion sliced very thin
6 cloves of garlic minced
Black pepper to taste
Beef short ribs depending on the number of persons 1/2 lb per person generally.

Directions:

1. Mix the ingredients either by hand or in a blender.

2. Pour the marinade over your ribs in a container and coat ribs well.

3. Place the covered container in the refrigerator or cooler for at least 2 hours or over night.

4. BBQ or grill as some say, mopping the marinade on the ribs to keep them moist.

5. Because these ribs are thin, they will not take long to cook. These are juicy and delicious right off the grill.

Buñelos Aga

Recipe by Annie and Carolyn Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Barry Duenas

Krispie Kremes has nothing on fresh warm Buñelos Aga – banana donuts. For the best results, make with local sweet bananas. The best foods work just as well for breakfast as dessert.

Ingredients:

2 cups mashed ripe bananas
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Vegetable oil (for frying)
Maple syrup, for dipping or glazing

Directions:

1. Place the oil in a large frying pan; turn the heat to medium to begin preheating the oil.

2. Mix all of the other ingredients thoroughly. It’s going to look like mashed up bananas, but firmer because of the flour. The batter will be very sticky but don’t be tempted to add more flour — this is the perfect ratio to make moist donuts. Adding too much flour will make them rubbery.

3.  When oil is hot, drop the mixture by spoonful into the oil, turning frequently. The Chamorro method is to scoop up a little bit of batter in your hand, then squeeze out a dollop of batter between your thumb and pointer.

4.  Deep fry over medium heat. Keep your stove settings on medium heat. If the oil it too hot, it will burn on the outside before the inside cooks.  Cook until golden brown.

5.  Serve with a side of maple syrup for dipping, or glaze all of the donuts with maple syrup.

6.  Drain on a paper towel and serve warm.

BBQ Chicken

By Rueben Olivas

Some people use the same marinade for short ribs as for chicken, here Rueben Olivas shares his own sweet chili sauce. BBQ over charcoal as close to the beach as you can get.

Ingredients:
2 ½ to 3 lbs of chicken wing drumlets and winglets.
1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup of water
1/2 cup of sugar
2 fresh hot peppers minced
2 cloves of fresh garlic minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 teaspoon water

Directions:

1. In a saucepan, combine together the water, vinegar and sugar.

2. Mix together until well blended. Bring to a boil until the sugar has been dissolved.

3. Add the hot pepper, garlic and salt, and boil for another 1 minute.

4. Add the cornstarch and boil until everything has blended together.

5. Allow this to cool before you use it for a marinade.

6. If you are going to use this sauce for a barbecue glaze, cooling is not necessary.

7. Wash and allow the chicken wings to drip dry. Place chicken wings in a re-sealable plastic bag with 1 cup of the sweet chili sauce.

8. Seal the bag and rotate to make sure the wings are well coated with the sauce. Chill for at least 4 hours before barbecuing.

9. Start the fire in your BBQ pit. You want to BBQ with medium heat. This is at about 350 to 450 degrees F. Use the thermometer in the lid/cover of your BBQ pit to measure the heat.

10. If you do not have a lid thermometer, here is another way to measure your heat. Hold the palm of your hand about 5 inches above the grill. If you can hold your hand there about 5 to 7 seconds, you can consider your heat to be medium.

11. Take you wings out of the chill box and allow them to reach room temperature before BBQ-ing. This should take about 20 minutes.

12. Grease up your grill and place the chicken wings down. Barbecue your wings about 15-20 minutes per side but make sure that you constantly turn them so that the sugar from the sweet chili sauce marinade does not burn. Total cooking time should be 30 to 40 minutes.

13. The last 5 minutes of cooking, coat the wings with the remaining cup of sauce for a nice, thick glaze.

14. Serve with white rice and your favorite sides.

Golfan Apai Lemmai

Recipe by Dr. Judy Flores

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Lemmai, also called breadfruit, grows in abundance on the island of Guam. The meat can be baked as is, or made into dough for frying. The best way to eat lemmai, is slow-cooked in golfan, coconut milk, until soft. This recipe can also be used with banana, yam, or any other starchy vegetable.

Ingredients:

1 large (3 to 5 lb) breadfruit
2 coconuts (milk extracted or a 12-ounce can of coconut milk may be substituted)
½ teaspoon salt
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar (optional)
Water

Directions:

1. Peel the breadfruit and cut into serving-sized pieces. Place in pot large enough to fit everything, with space on top to allow for boiling the coconut milk to bubble up.

2. Mix coconut milk and salt to taste, and add sugar if desired. Pour over the vegetables, so that everything is covered, but visible.

3. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and drop heat to low. When the mixture is åppan and the vegetables firm but soft, the dish is ready to serve.

Hotnon Babui

By Tanya Champaco Mendiola

Fresh roasted pork is moist and tender and should fall right off your fork. Though this recipe is as simple as it gets it takes a lot of love and patience to make the perfect hotnon babui. Even if made in a special oven, this dish is reserved for very special occasions.

Ingredients:

100 lb pig, cleaned
Water
Apple, cabbage for garnish

Directions:

1. Place pig on a spit and turn.

2. Using a brush, constantly baste with water.

3. Cooking time is generally 4 hours. Some chefs recommend to allow 1 hour cooking time for every 10 pounds.

4. Fina’denne’ or another condiment of choice can add flavor to the meat after it is cooked. Garnish with apple, cabbage, or ingredients of your choice.

Latiya

By Paula Quinene

The vanilla custard cake, latiya, just might be the reason why they invented desert. The island’s take on the Spanish natillas, latiya is served at the end any great celebration.

Ingredients:

Betty Crocker boxed pound cake mix
2 cans evaporated milk
2 cans worth of water
6 eggs, room temperature
½ cup cornstarch
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
2/3 cups water
1 stick unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
Cinnamon for dusting

Tools: large pot, whisk, medium bowl, small bowl, two containers with 2-inch lip

Directions:

1. Bake cake as directed on box. Let cool and slice ½ inch thick. Arrange slices in a tray that has a 2-inch lip.

2. Pour milk into pot. Refill the two cans with water and pour into the pot. Add butter and sugar. Set pot on medium heat and stir occasionally. Bring to a gentle boil.

3. While waiting for the milk mixture to boil, beat the eggs and vanilla in a medium bowl. Set aside.

4. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch and water.

5. When the milk mixture reaches a gentle boil, slowly pour in the eggs and vanilla as you quickly whisk the mixture in the pot. Ignore the shreds of eggs as this will not be evident in the final taste and texture. Stir constantly. Let this come to a gentle boil then add the cornstarch mixture. Stir and cook for two minutes.

6. Pour custard over cake and sprinkle with cinnamon. Cool uncovered in the fridge over night.

7. Slice into squares and serve chilled.

Lumpia

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

What is the Philippines’ greatest export? Food! Their fried spring roll has become a staple at the Chamorro fiesta table. Since they’re small, no one looks twice when you eat five.

Ingredients:

2 pounds ground pork, beef, or chicken
1 large russet potato, diced
1 large onion, diced
1 cup green beans, diced
1 large green bell pepper, diced
1 bag (10 oz) sliced carrots
1 bag rice noodles
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 can bean sprouts, drained
50 lumpia wrappers
Dashida Korean beef stock
Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Brown the ground meat with diced onions and garlic.

2. Add 4 tablespoons Dashida seasoning, and stir. Then add beans, carrots, potatoes, and bell peppers.

3. Soak the noodles in hot water until softened. Use kitchen shears to cut into small pieces, then add to pot with the other ingredients.

4. Finally add the bean sprouts.

5. Stir all of the ingredients together, and cook until the potatoes are almost done, but still firm. Add salt and pepper to taste.

6. Place a lumpia wrapper on a flat surface, then add 2 to 3 tablespoons of filling on one edge.

7. Tightly fold the edge over the filling, fold the sides toward the middle, and roll, stopping one inch from the edge.

8. Moisten the edge of the wrapper with water, and press gently to seal.

9. Fry in vegetable oil until golden brown.

10. Serve with dipping sauce.

Red Rice

By Paula Quinene

Red rice is the most iconic dish of the Mariana Islands. Rice made bright with achote is served alongside everything from BBQ to Thanksgiving turkey. Make any meal a fiesta by doctoring up your rice with this easy recipe.

Ingredients:

Calrose-style rice (short-grain)
5 ½ cups water, more as needed
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon bacon drippings
¼ cup chopped yellow onions
1 ½ teaspoon garlic powder
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
5 teaspoon seasoning salt
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons achote seeds

Directions:

1. In a medium pot, measure and rinse 5 cups of rice. Add 5 ¼ cups water (more water may be necessary while the rice cooks).

2. Add the oil, bacon drippings, and onions. Season to taste with seasoning salt, pepper, garlic powder, and salt so that it is quite flavorful. Set the pot on medium-high heat.

3. Place a strainer over the pot such that it is about 2 inches submerged into the liquid. Put the achote seeds into the strainer. As the liquid heats, the color and flavor will be released. Stir the seeds within the strainer constantly.

4. Boil the rice for 10 minutes, long enough to get a dark orange, almost red color. Stir the pot of rice occasionally to prevent the bottom from sticking and burning.

5. After the coloring is completed, remove the strainer with the seeds. At this time, if it looks like much of the water has been absorbed, add ¼ cup more water.

6. Stir rice. Cover the pot and steam for 10 minutes.

7. Check rice. If kernels are cooking and the rice looks to have enough water, scoop rice and steam another 15 minute. However, if the kernels are still quite opaque and rice looks dry, add a ½ cup more water. Do not stir cooked rice as stirring makes cooked rice mushy.

8. Check rice and repeat until rice is cooked. Use an ice cream scoop to serve perfect mounds of rice.

Shrimp Patties

Recipe by Annie and Hannah Merfalen

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Who doesn’t love a good fritter? Made with mixed vegetables and shrimp, make these soft dough balls a decadent part of your daily meal. This recipe is made without eggs, for a denser dough.

Ingredients:

1 cup thinly sliced green beans
2 cups peas
1 cup chopped onions
3 cups corn kernels
4 cups shrimp, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 cans evaporated milk
3 cups all purpose flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
5 tablespoons Dashida seasoning
1 teaspoon Accent
1 teaspoon black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying

Directions:

1.  Heat the oil in a large frying pan. To test the heat, use the tip of a wooden spoon and dip it into the oil.  If little bubbles start to form around the wood, then the oil is hot and ready.
2.  While you’re waiting for the oil to heat up, mix all of the ingredients (except for the vegetable oil, of course) in a large bowl.
3.  Drop batter by the spoonful – about 1½ tablespoons each – into the hot oil and fry until golden brown.
4. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.

Tinala’ katne

By Tanya Champaco Mendiola

PHOTO SOURCE: Contributed to Guampedia by Victor Consaga

Dried cured beef, tinala’ katne takes on a bright reddish color. Smokey and salty, this fiesta staple modernizes an old preservation technique.

Ingredients:

1 lb beef, thinly sliced
Cloves of garlic, crushed to taste
1/4 cup vinegar
Salt to taste (ocean or table salt can be used)
Pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Mix ingredients and rub on meat.

2. Hang to dry or place in an oven to dry.

3. Once dried, beef can be heated over a barbecue grill or in an oven before serving.

Titiyas

Recipe by Annie Merfalen

Titiyas, Chamorro for tortilla, can be made with corn or flour. They are delicious chesa on their own, or can be used like a chip to scoop up kelaguen.

Ingredients:

3 cups all purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup coconut milk
1/4 cup melted butter
1/4 to 1/2 cup cream of coconut (the sweet one, used for mixed drinks, NOT coconut cream).

Directions:

1.  Mix the dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Add the coconut milk, melted butter, and cream of coconut (start out with 1/4 cup; increase to a total of 1/2 cup, depending on how humid your day is – more humid means less liquid). Mix together until dough forms; knead gently to form a smooth ball of dough.

2.  Break off golf-ball sized pieces. Flour rolling surface and rolling pin.  Roll out the piece of dough into a flat disc (about 1/8-inch thick). Place the titiyas on a dry skillet; prick all over with a fork to prevent bubbling during the cooking process.

3.  Pan-fry on a dry skillet over medium-low heat for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until the bottom begins to turn a golden brown; flip over and cook the other side until it turns a nice golden brown.  For thicker titiyas, cook over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side.

4. The titiyas are done when you gently press down on the center and it feels somewhat firm to the touch.

5.  Place cooked titiyas on a plate covered with a clean kitchen towel to keep warm.  Serve with chicken kelaguen.

Apigige’

By Paula Quinene

PHOTO SOURCE: Uploaded to Wikimedia by Abasaa

Apigige’ is a sweet mix of coconut and cassava, grilled in a banana leap. Served as a sticky snack or simple desert, apigige’ can be stored long term in the freezer.

Ingredients:
1 16 oz. bag banana leaves, cut into 8 in. long x 5in. wide pieces.
2 cups chopped/slivered young coconut (Two 20 oz. cans)
Two 16 oz packages of grated cassava (if frozen, thaw overnight, do not soak in hot water
1 cup young coconut juice
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

Directions:

1. Clean the banana leaves with a sponge and water. Wipe leaves with kitchen towel and set atop baking racks to dry.

2. Drain juice from coconut, saving 1 cup to set aside.

3. Finely slice the coconut.

4. In a medium bowl, combine the coconut meat, 1 cup of juice, grated cassava, and sugar to form a thick batter. Depending on the brand of cassava, it may be quite watery. If this is the case, pour your batter into a fine-mesh colander and drain out some of the liquid. Preheat griddle or grill to medium heat.

5. Apply 2 tablespoons of mixture at the bottom edge of banana leaf, centered, about 2 inches up from the bottom. Use 3 tablespoons for thick and big apigige’.

6. Spread mix into a 4 inch x 1.5 inch rectangle, or 5 inches long if using 3 tbsp.

7. Fold and roll like a flattened burrito.

8. Cook folded-side down until apigige’ has puffed up and bottom of banana leaves are charred, about 8 minutes.

9. You will see that the apigige’ has thickened. Flip to the other side for another 8 to 10 minutes, charring as well.

Cucumber Salad

Recipe by Annie and Carolyn Merfalen

Marinated in an island brine of soy sauce, vinegar, and hot pepper, the Chamorro spin on the cucumber pickle is perfect alongside red rice and ribs.

Ingredients:

2 large cucumbers

2 tablespoons salt

1 small onion, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup white vinegar

Directions:

1. Slice the cucumbers about 1/4 inch thick. Place the cucumber slices into a plastic colander then place the colander into a large bowl. Sprinkle salt over the cucumbers and stir to combine. Let the salted cucumber slices sit for about 15 minutes to allow excess water to drain out. After 15 minutes, pour out any water that drained into the bowl. Rinse the salt off the cucumbers and drain.

2. Place rinsed and drained cucumbers into the large bowl. Add the onion, garlic, soy sauce and vinegar. Stir to combine.

3. Let the cucumbers sit for several minutes to allow the cucumbers to soak up all of the flavors. Serve with your favorite meat dish!

All photos used with permission